TXT DCS reversing switch

[kgsc]

jb, the cc switches I have seen have no markings, the bezel does so you just need to make sure it is pointing to the correct side..

[JohnnieB]

You're right kgsc, I took a peek on-line at the one Scotty puts in the reversing contactor kit he sells.

Unless the switch only fits in bezel one way:
Jumper 2 to 5
Jumper 4 to 6.
Yellow wire from keyswitch goes to 4
Red/Orange wire from Run/Tow switch goes to 2
Orange wire from controller Pin-9 goes to 3

[bmr4106]

Johnnie B, thanks for this great DPDT solution.my reversing micros witch just "fell apart". New one cost $30,but your solution is about $10 and much simpler. My rev micros witch has a red/orange & an orange wire. My fwd micros switch has a yellow & an orange wire. Does it matter which orange wire I use to connect to terminal 5 of the DPDT? Can I splice both them together and connect them to terminal 5 of the DPDT?
BTW, I plan to make video for YouTube of the repair.
Thanks again for all your help.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bmr4106

Johnnie B, thanks for this great DPDT solution.my reversing micros witch just "fell apart". New one cost $30,but your solution is about $10 and much simpler. My rev micros witch has a red/orange & an orange wire. My fwd micros switch has a yellow & an orange wire. Does it matter which orange wire I use to connect to terminal 5 of the DPDT? Can I splice both them together and connect them to terminal 5 of the DPDT?
BTW, I plan to make video for YouTube of the repair.
Thanks again for all your help.

I've never laid eyes on a DCS F/R switch other than in photos and parts list drawings, but is sounds like the wire colors on your cart don't match the wire colors on the schematic I'm using.

The two microswitches are actually Run and Reverse. In "F" only the contacts in Run microswitch contacts are closed and in "R" the contacts in both microswitches are closed.

One wire on each microswitch is has voltage on it all the time and the other wire goes the the keyswitch or controller. Use your voltmeter to find out which wires have voltage on them all the time and they go to Pins 3&4. which are jumpered together.

Pins 2&6 are jumpered together and the wire going to the keyswitch (yellow?) should be connected to them.

Pin-5 should only have one wire on it, the wire going to Pin-4 on controller.


Note: My drawing is mislabeled, I said the yellow wire goes to controller pin-9 and it actually goes to Pin-4.

[bmr4106]

Thank you.

[bmr4106]

I finally get to contribute!

I just completed the DPDT DCS reversing switch conversion and it is wonderful. So easy to use and less expensive than repairing the original. Special thanks to ScottyB & JohnnieB, without their input I would have never figured it out.
Picture one shows the backside of the factory FNR selector with the two microswitches. On the right is the reverse switch and on the left is the run switch. When you move the selector to the right (reverse) the cam engages both microswitches. When you select run(forward) only the left(run/forward? switch is engaged. To effect this mod, you need an on/off/on double pole double throw switch. Be sure you don't get a momentary switch by mistake, they both look alike. The DPDT switch is basically two switched in one.. One side of the DPDT will be the run/forward switch and the other side will be the reverse switch. The side with just two wires is the reverse side.
On my 1996 cart, there is a plug in connector connecting both microswitches to the cart wiring harness. I just cut off the factory switches and crimped spade lug terminals on the wiring and then connected the spade terminals on the DPDT switch.
Removing the factory FNR leaves a 1" hole in the body where the mechanical selector comes through. To hide this and give me a place to mount the DPDT, I used a round plastic piece sold by Lowe's to repair a hole in sheet rock caused by a door know banging into the wall. Just drill an appropriate size hole to mount the switch into. I had to enlarge the hole in the body just a little to make room for the rectangular part of the DPDT switch in.

[bmr4106]

Here is a picture of the mounting plate package from Lowe's.

[JohnnieB]

Thanks for the pictures. By connecting both of the blue wires to the common terminals of the switch, you don't have to short them together with a jumper wire like I suggested and is much easier to do.

I'm going to redo my drawing using you idea.

If possible, please post pictures of the old F/R showing it in Forward and in Reverse. How that switch assembly works is easier to explain when you have pictures. showing it in F , N and R.

[bmr4106]

My pleasure. Pictures are forward, neutral, reverse...respectively.

[JohnnieB]

Thanks, you might see them posted on BGW again.