ITS diagnosis

[duder1982]

My EZ go TXT (03' if I remember correctly) does not move. I have voltage to and from the fnr switch, through the micro switch in the throttle box. Battery voltage is 38 or higher, I have voltage at the solenoid, but not sure about ground (from what I read, the blue wire should go to ground to energize the solenoid), I also know that I have voltage on the white wire on the 4 pin connector but not the black wire, I assume this is to and from the ITS. I didn't have access to this when out at the location of my cart this weekend.

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.
Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.

I was doing some basic test, then I discovered this when I returned home. So now I have a few questions before I go out this weekend. What is the purpose of the jumpers? I ask as I know I have voltage to the ITS, but absolutely nothing coming out of it. Maybe that is purpose the of the jumper? If my ITS is bad and I plan on upgrading my controller. Is there upgraded ITS or is the original version just fine?

Sorry for the redundant questions and putting the cart before the horse (there maybe pun in that statement, I'm just not sure ) anyways, maybe something is obvious, maybe I need to start from the top, let me know.

Thanks

[yurtle]

Sorry if you answered this. I didn't read the whole thing. Does your solenoid click when you press the "gas" pedal?

You may want to check the 4 wire Molex from the throttle box to the wiring harness. It's usually located near the controller. 2 wires are from the microswitch, and cause the solenoid to click, the other 2 go to the ITS. I used to have to clean mine a couple of times each year, until I cut off the Molex and soldered the wires together.

[duder1982]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Sorry if you answered this. I didn't read the whole thing. Does your solenoid click when you press the "gas" pedal?

You may want to check the 4 wire Molex from the throttle box to the wiring harness. It's usually located near the controller. 2 wires are from the microswitch, and cause the solenoid to click, the other 2 go to the ITS. I used to have to clean mine a couple of times each year, until I cut off the Molex and soldered the wires together.

Good point, one thing I forgot to mention, it does not. I didn't think to check power at the controller for the micro switch. I will keep that in mind.

[yurtle]

Does it work intermittently, did it used to work then just quit?

Don't worry about the high amp circuit (thick cables). The problem is in the solenoid activation circuit.

[duder1982]

I drove it a couple of weeks ago, parked it and it hasnt ran sense.

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[duder1982]

At the motor controller i have 37 volts on the red and green wire coming from the micro switch. 13.96 on the white wire and 3.6 on the black, 4.7 when i fully depress the pedal.

I dont know if this means anything, but i can run a jumper from my negative to the blue wire on the solenoid and it goes click. That being said what is not sending the ground to the solenoid?

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[duder1982]

I ran the diagnostic and get a 1-2 but it only mentions if the solenoid clicks, which mine does not.

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[scottyb]

No solenoid click ? Which drive system do you have?

[duder1982]

Originally Posted by scottyb

No solenoid click ? Which drive system do you have?

If your asking if i have fnr on dash and pds cart with Curtis controller

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[scottyb]

For the PDS cart it should have (+) pack voltage at controller pins # 1,3,4,5,7,8,&9 with the F&R in forward and the pedal depressed ... and the solenoid should click