Club Cart motor/other problem?

[jrwpmw]

Yes single solenoid cart.
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Can you see the pictures I attached?
Again, I really want to thank you all for the help.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79806152@N03/7314464878/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79806152@N03/7314458810/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79806152@N03/7314461246/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79806152@N03/7314589490/

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Yes I see the pictures. Try my suggestion and post your results

[jrwpmw]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Yes I see the pictures. Try my suggestion and post your results

Yes, I tried the solenoid thing (did it again just to be sure). Same results, I guess I at least know the solenoid is good! I also had a short battery cable wire, I actually attached that to both solenoid posts just to make sure I had good contact.

[jrwpmw]

Just another update.

This weekend...

Took the F/W off, disassembeled cleaned and reinstalled (copper bars were really greasy, etc.). No luck fixing the problem.

Took off the wiper switch, dissassebled, cleaned and reinstalled. Found a loose wire and replaced, was hoping that was the issue but no luck.

Use the cart over the weekend. Strange, but seems a little better (probably just my wishful thinking). Also found that, it seems like when you can't get it going that if you get it rolling and hit the accellerator that it takes off. Not 100% sure about that, twice that it didn't move, tried that and it worked.

In any case, I am not fairly confident that the F/W and wiper switch are not the problems.

Since when it does move, it seems to run fine (maybe a little weak on power when going up a big hill, but it is an old 36v cart). So, I think the motor is fine.

The soleniod also seems fine, tested it by jumping the two big posts.

I am now starting to think it's the controller? The box up under the back, passenger side. It has all of the cables running to/from it. If it's not a controller, it's some type of power unit (most of the wires run to/from it).

So a question for everyone, could the controller be the problem? (if it's not a controller, what is that on this year cart)? If I took it off, can it be dissasebled and cleaned like the F/W switch and wiper switch? Of it is more electronic on the inside rather than mechanical?

Thanks again,

[jrwpmw]

P.S.

I have a Curtis PMC 1204-015 (24-36v, 275 current) controller.

Would a Curtis PMC 1204-410 (36-48v, 225 current) controller work?

I found a used one, looks the same (off of a 2000 Club Car, mine is a 1992). The big difference seems to be in current (275 mine, 225 new one).

Thanks, and if you know where I can get a used/rebuit contoler please let me know. I am not sure that is the problem yet, but it's starting to look that way!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Yes the controller could be the problem, however the controller you listed will not work. It's setup for an opposite throttle input and it's for a 48V car on top of that. Definitely not compatible.

[jrwpmw]

Thanks!

It was also mentioned that the brushes could be bad on the motor. Can they be easily replace? Since I do have the problem narrowed down (at least I hope)! If I had to pick one, should I go for the controller or brushes in the motor?

[shadowman]

David do you think that controller would act up like that? i know its possible but those 1204,s are pretty tough and most cases when they act up they just go kaputt..............something tells me this is just a simple thing going bad intermittant like solenoid or microswitch but then again its a golfcart so it may be a flat tire.............lolol....................well sooner or later were going to find out ..................these intermittant problems are always the brain biters.....................................

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You're right those 1204 controllers are very tough. But it's possible. I've seen this issue, but very VERY rarely. Do a continuity test on the motor. A1 to A2 should have it. S1 to S2 should have it. Be sure to unhook motor wires when doing this test. You dont want continuity between any of the 4 posts and the base of the motor or continuity between any A and S posts. Be sure to rotate motor one full revolution while checking to check for constant continuity throughout the whole range.

[sonicj]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Yes the controller could be the problem, however the controller you listed will not work. It's setup for an opposite throttle input and it's for a 48V car on top of that. Definitely not compatible.

I would have to respectfully disagree here... The V-Glide can be configured 5k-0 or 0-5k by swapping the terminations at one or two wires. The 1204-410 has no problem operating at 36V.
-sj