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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 05-23-2013, 04:27 PM   #11
beachin
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: San Diego, CA Area
Posts: 30
Default Re: 2000 TXT brake system rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by yurtle View Post
There are three manuals, Owners, Parts, and Service. The Parts manuals has good exploded diagrams.
There should be an icon for slapping yourself in the forehead.

Thanks. MUCH MUCH better than the Service manual.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:31 PM   #12
beachin
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: San Diego, CA Area
Posts: 30
Default Re: 2000 TXT brake system rebuild

Box arrived on Friday (from a site supporter) with about half of my parts order for the job - with no word on delivery of the remaining parts???? Will call them Tuesday.

Decided to tackle the brake cable swap (since it did come) and figured it for a nasty job. It was.

Driver's side was completely rusted behind the wheel assembly at the clevis pin - no movement at all. Had to remove the back-plate & beat it loose on the bench even after a good soaking. Pass side actually broke loose much easier than I thought it would - there was some (but limited) movement on that side. New cable went on easy enough and I greased the clevis pin area pretty good just for grins.

New shoes went on easy enough - but I used the old brake springs since they will need to come apart again. The new adjusters are part of the MIA parts. No sense putting new springs on knowing they need to come off again. The old adjusters are probably OK, but the star wheels show obvious wear & I don't like the looks of them.

Did a 20 minute "Mickey Mouse" rebuild on the compensator spring assembly (another MIA part) just for testing.

Dropped it off the jacks & SLOWLY went out to see if they would adjust now. No problem. "Panic" stop will even lock up the passenger side wheel - but not driver side. That was the side with most worn adjuster though.

A note on this cart (2000 TXT). The clevis pins for the brake cable will not go in or come out from the top of the bracket unless you have the brake back plate removed & assemble the cable before you bolt it back on. Part of the frame is in the way (nice design there guys). I'm planning to drill a second hole in the pin just under the head - put it in from the bottom - then safety wire it ALA aircraft bolts. I want to be able to remove the pin and service the connection yearly to avoid the gnarly mess I just fixed.

Put the cart back on jack stands to make sure it doesn't get driven until I'm done with the brakes while I not so patiently wait for the parts fairy.
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