Alltrax is in, but solenoid clicks in FWD

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kellybell

How do you do that? Would it even run if it was set any other way?

When to turn the select a direction (F or R) with the key on, the green LED should blink a number of times before it comes on steady. If it is set for an ITS throttle, it will blink four times.

It might run if the throttle is set wrong, but it probably would run or not run instead of acting like it is.

I'm 99.9% sure you've got a vibration sensitive intermittent connection somewhere in the control wiring.

[sunoco]

I have experienced this with Club Cars when the throttle is set to 5k-0 instead of CC 3 wire. Like I said it was just a suggestion

The controller will blink when it is powered on

[kellybell]

You know, I agree, Johnnie B. It seems to be intermittent, which, in my automotive background experience is a short that comes and goes. I am working on getting someone to help me with operating the throttle while I paw at the wires............

[kellybell]

Thanks Sunoco. I will try and see if it blinks 4 times when it powers up.......

[JohnnieB]

You say the solenoid isn't dropping out, so the two possibilities I suspect the most are:
1. The small red wire that connects to the solenoids battery side large terminal. It splits inside the wiring harness and goes two ways. One feeds B+ to the beeper and the other feeds B+ to J1 Pin-5 on the original PDS controller.
I'm not sure about this, but I believe the connection is called a "Sonic Weld" and it has cause cart mechanics to rip their hair out trying to find the problem it causes.

2. The two wires to/from the ITS sensor. Loose either one of those and the controller wouldn't pass amps until you took your foot off the pedal (If the High Pedal Disable box is checked - If it isn't, it would come back as soon as the connection returned)

Also, you said you got 14V on one wire and 0.8V on the other. That might be good or bad, I don't know.
The voltage test for the ITS on an Alltrax controller is between the two wires rather than from B- to each of them separately.
Should be 10V pedal up and 6V pedal down.

---------
The voltage source for the pedal microswitch is the Reed switch, which is a common source of problems, but the pedal switch tells the DCX controller to energize the solenoid, so if the pedal switch circuit was misbehaving, I suspect the solenoid would be dropping out.

[kellybell]

OK, this is getting a littly funny. I spent the day with the rear end jacked up and a helper was doing the throttle thing, and no matter what I did, it didn't fail. Then, I got to looking at the F1 and F2 connections on the motor and they looked pretty grundgy. So, I removed them and cleaned them up, put on new hex nuts (stainless steel, yurtle! It really does look better and is corrosion resistant, try it!) and the problem has not happened since. However, now another problem has surfaced. When I am on a hill coasting down the hill, one rear wheel will suddenly lock up for a split second, then it will release. Geez, if its not one thing. It is kind of scary tooling around knowing that it may happen at any random moment. I am going to get new F1 and F2 cables tomorrow......

[kellybell]

Well, I bought some 10 gauge wire and built new F1 and F2 leads and installed them, see attached. I just put over 3 freezing miles on the cart and no hesitation, no wheels locking up, just perfect operation! Iam not convinced yet, but we'll see in the next few days!

[kellybell]

Well, I give up. Got up this morning and it did it again. The shop is coming tomorrow to pick it up. I will be interested to find out what the problem is. Thanks, everyone!

[scottyb]

Keep us posted. I thought the new F1 and 2 wires would fix it?

[kellybell]

I will, Scotty. I held out a lot of hope for them as well......