Cart runs then cuts out.

[_ogre]

you on commission nolefan?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by _ogre

you on commission nolefan?

Lol! No, but he supports the site with sponsorship, expert technical advice, and has became a good friend so I feel I owe it to others to point them in the right direction and save us all the headaches of helping the them with 2nd rate/sub par-parts later...

[revan0202]

I have not don’t the tests yet but I did find a fuse under the panel that was blown. Could that be the problem?

[NoleFan4Ever]

I would not think so as a blown fuse would take that particular circuit out all the time and not be intermittent. But what ever it is connected to, that component should be functional again...

[revan0202]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

2 things it could be since you both have SepEx carts; it sounds like your MCOR as if it drops out and you are rolling the "Roll-Away" alarm is sounding to let you know your cart is rolling without being engaged. There is an outside chance it could be your speed sensor, but that would be 2nd to the MCOR.

MCOR Test:
Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed. Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/mcors

Speed Sensor Test:
(With the carts Run/Tow switch in the "Run" position and brake Off) Push the vehicle manually forwards or backwards for several feet. The "Roll-Away" brake should become active and you would feel resistance to the movement along with multiple beeping from the reverse buzzer. If you do not get beeping and resistance, your speed sensor has failed and needs to be replaced. Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/motors

Ok i did the test. The speed control work the way it should but the mcor , even with the jumper does the same thing. Now what could it be????? Why could I not have an easy fix like the other guy. Lol.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Then you are either loosing an input to the solenoid (Pos or Neg) or you have a bad or shorting wire somewhere.

When it happens again, do not touch anything. Just get your meter and lets find out what you lost or are losing.

(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal slightly depressed)
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. (You should get 48vdc)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. (You should get 48vdc)

If you have both of these the solenoid should operate or it is bad, if you do not, it is probably the controller as you already jumpered the MCOR. And of course a shorting wire on the positive activation side could cause it too. That is why we need to find out what is dropping out.

[revan0202]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Then you are either loosing an input to the solenoid (Pos or Neg) or you have a bad or shorting wire somewhere.

When it happens again, do not touch anything. Just get your meter and lets find out what you lost or are losing.

(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal slightly depressed)
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. (You should get 48vdc)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. (You should get 48vdc)

If you have both of these the solenoid should operate or it is bad, if you do not, it is probably the controller as you already jumpered the MCOR. And of course a shorting wire on the positive activation side could cause it too. That is why we need to find out what is dropping out.

On the blue/ white wire I have 49v. Before the hit the pedal. After I hit the pedal lightly it goes to 0v and solenoid kick out and the meter goes back to 49v. The solenoid is new.

On the blue wire. I am getting 37v. When I hit the pedal it stays at 37v. I also tried testing the blue wire with the main pos and I get 49v.

I tested continuity from the blue/white wire to the controller. It is only about a 6” wire. It was good ,no open.

Also should I still have the jumper from the mcor green and blue wire in. I took it out while I was testing

[NoleFan4Ever]

Put the jumper back in and retest that blue wire. With the key on, in Fwd, and Go Pedal depressed, you should get ~48vdc (or pack voltage) as that is your positive activation to the solenoid.

If you do have it this time, the MCOR microswitch is bad and that is when the jumper bypassed.

Red lead to the blue wire (with it removed from the solenoid) and the black lead to the main pack negative.

[Ken taylor]

Hi not sure if you figured out the issue yet ,but I had something similar. My issue was a diode coming from the run /tow switch in the harness where the computer and solenoid are located .if you can find a wiring diagram you'll see it .mine is a 2010 not sure if you have one in yours . Sergio helped me a couple years ago diagnose it . Hope you get it figured out

[Ken taylor]

Here is pic of part was able to get from Tahoe resolution carts.