1968 Harley-Davidson DE

[jakesnake27]

Thanks guys!

[jakesnake27]

Another charger upgrade for this cart. You don't want to go to the best right at first, right? Thanks to member 'handtools', this old Harley now has a Yewy smart/float charger keeping the batteries in optimal condition.

[Finn5033]

Hello Jake, I just read through your entire thread. I am mostly curious of your solid state conversion. I just picked up a 36v masterglide IV. Would you be willing to share with me everything you bought to do your conversion and what it ended up costing you? Thanks

[jakesnake27]

Hi Finn, welcome to BGW and thank you for reading through my thread! Converting to solid state is the best thing you can do to an old cart, IMO. What I did was a DIY poor man’s conversion. The reason I say that is because Scottyb at Carts Unlimited (a site sponsor) sells complete kits that include everything you need (see here: https://www.cartsunlimited.net/unive...rsion-kit.html). I would have gone this route, but I wanted to save some bucks, and I am pretty handy and enjoy fabricating, wiring, etc.

Everything in parts cost me right at $500; here is what all I bought:

-Curtis 1204 controller
-36v Curtis solenoid
-Generic 36v reversing contactor
-Solenoid resistor and diode
-Two reversing contactor diodes
-SPDT switch (for FNR)
-PB-6 potentiometer
-EZGO style key switch
-250 amp main fuse

I didn't need to purchase any cables, as I was able to reuse all of the stock 6 gauge ones.

The most difficult part of the process was mounting the PB-6 pot box to get it to work with the factory accelerator linkage. A couple hours with some scrap metal, a grinder, tape measure, sharpie, and a trip to the hardware store, it was mounted and working like a charm.

The wiring diagram I followed was the one listed in the Curtis 1204 controller manual. I found it to be very straightforward and easy to follow (see pic below).

I did the conversion over the course of three days, working a few hours each day. If you are handy and know how to read a basic wiring diagram, you won't have any trouble at all. The results are what makes it all worth it- silky smooth acceleration with no more of the jerkiness that the stock drive system has.

Start a thread on your cart and post up some pics, I'd love to see it!

[Finn5033]

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

Hi Finn, welcome to BGW and thank you for reading through my thread! Converting to solid state is the best thing you can do to an old cart, IMO. The conversion I did was a DIY 'poor mans' conversion. The reason I say that is because Scottyb at Carts Unlimited (a site sponsor) sells complete kits that include everything you need (see here: https://www.cartsunlimited.net/unive...rsion-kit.html). I would have gone this route, but I wanted to save some bucks, and I am pretty handy and enjoy fabricating, wiring, etc.

Everything in parts cost me right at $500; here is what all I bought:

-Curtis 1204 controller
-36v Curtis solenoid
-Generic 36v reversing contactor
-Solenoid resistor and diode
-Two reversing contactor diodes
-SPDT switch (for FNR)
-PB-6 potentiometer
-EZGO style key switch
-250 amp main fuse

I didn't need to purchase any cables, as I was able to reuse all of the stock 6 gauge ones.

The most difficult part of the process was mounting the PB-6 pot box to get it to work with the factory accelerator linkage. A couple hours with some scrap metal, a grinder, tape measure, sharpie, and a trip to the hardware store, it was mounted and working like a charm.

The wiring diagram I followed was the one listed in the Curtis 1204 controller manual. I found it to be very straightforward and easy to follow (see pic below).

I did the conversion over the course of three days, working a few hours each day. If you are handy and know how to read a basic wiring diagram, you won't have any trouble at all. The results are what makes it all worth it- silky smooth acceleration with no more of the jerkiness that the stock drive system has.

Start a thread on your cart and post up some pics, I'd love to see it!

Thank you very much Jake. I would like to save some money as well. I am pretty handy and actually do pipe and structural fabrication for a living so welding, grinding etc is no big deal to me. Thats amazing you got all of that for $500. I'm seeing $500 just for a controller and PB-6. I will start a thread if I decide to convert this bad boy. Thanks

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by Finn5033

Thank you very much Jake. I would like to save some money as well. I am pretty handy and actually do pipe and structural fabrication for a living so welding, grinding etc is no big deal to me. Thats amazing you got all of that for $500. I'm seeing $500 just for a controller and PB-6. I will start a thread if I decide to convert this bad boy. Thanks

I just saw your thread, somehow I missed it earlier.

Great, sounds like you could tackle this no problem then. I lucked into finding a good deal on a controller used on eBay. I also purchased the solenoid used. Deals are out there, just have to find them. Good luck!

[Leon willis]

how do you find the year on that thing I have similar one I can't find the year on it

[Lochlin]

Originally Posted by Leon willis

how do you find the year on that thing I have similar one I can't find the year on it

These carts has serial number tags on the frame, normally driver's side near the rear wheel. Google "Harley Davidson Cart VIN Decoder" and you will find a lot of resources that will help you date your cart.

If your cart doesn't have the serial plate then there isn't much you can do to date the cart, obviously.

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by Leon willis

how do you find the year on that thing I have similar one I can't find the year on it

As Lochlin said, look for an aluminum riveted tag on the frame above the driver’s side rear wheel.