I hooked up main wires to batteries backwards, fried some wires, help???

[texman38]

I switched out batteries (hooked the batteries together correctly) but then hooked up the main wires coming from the controller to batteries backwards, it immediately fried the wires leading to the charging port and the diode is fried... anyone know whether i fried anything else possibly? controller? solenoid? or f/r switch? or motor? anything else? thanks!!! Sucks all i wanted to do was clean the battery box and replace the batteries... and now i'm way over my head please tell me its an easy fix??? cart makes no noise no click nothing... does the forward reverse switch need power from the charging port, or foes the diode need to be replaced (i've read other posts where people have removed the diode and it still runs? there was a small wire coming from the charging port to the f/r switch that fried, what is this wire for and is that why the cart isn't doing anything.

[Dennisneri]

Ouch

[meimk]

Please give us the year, model, voltage etc for your cart. Systems have changed drastically over the years. Older (36 volt) EZGOs had a reed switch in the charging socket that either has to be functional or properly by-passed for the controller to work. It could be that simple, but a fried controller is a very real possibility. Give us more information and we'll see what we can do.

[scottyb]

Please ID the drive system using the flow chart I have attached

[texman38]

Its a 2002 series cart with 5 pin controller serial # 1540869 k502 Muchos Gracias

Originally Posted by scottyb

Please ID the drive system using the flow chart I have attached

[scottyb]

With any luck the reed switch fried in the charge receptacle, and maybe the micro switch on the F&R, and if you tried to go, the micro switch in the pedal box.
Without any luck the controller took a fatal jolt but - I bet not.

You have just learned lesson #1.
Positive and negative cannot be interchanged.
Don't be too hard on yourself... we have all done something similar

[texman38]

Originally Posted by meimk

Please give us the year, model, voltage etc for your cart. Systems have changed drastically over the years. Older (36 volt) EZGOs had a reed switch in the charging socket that either has to be functional or properly by-passed for the controller to work. It could be that simple, but a fried controller is a very real possibility. Give us more information and we'll see what we can do.

I went to look and the reed switch had already been bypassed, which is why the wire fried apparently, I yanked the wire last night when i saw it roasting and in the process disconnected it from the f/r switch, I ran a new wire shom the charging port to the f/r switch, hooked everything back up (correctly this time) and lownbehold it works, clicked when i turned the switch and ran forward and backwards... I had taken the diode off last night as well since it was fried, and am concerned about running it without a diode so i will probably buy 1 asap. Also should i have a fusible link going to the positive terminal... any recommendations? And I appreciate your answering, just what i needed to find the problem and fix it... and anyone else that responded as well

[scottyb]

Technically yes, everything wired to electricity should have a fusible link. But we see plenty maybe hundreds and more carts run without fuses... And we see carts with fuses meltdown and the fuse un burnt

To answer your question, yes no harm in playing it safe. Put an inline 5 amp fuse in that line.

[texman38]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Technically yes, everything wired to electricity should have a fusible link. But we see plenty maybe hundreds and more carts run without fuses... And we see carts with fuses meltdown and the fuse un burnt

To answer your question, yes no harm in playing it safe. Put an inline 5 amp fuse in that line.

Thanks! so the main + cable only has a 5 amp inline fuse?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by texman38

Thanks! so the main + cable only has a 5 amp inline fuse?

The main ignition wire uses a 5a fuse if any. I measure the ignition draw at 1.5 amps when the solenoid latches and the controller powers up. I use 2-3 amp fuses for this circuit in my conversion kits with no reports of fuse failure.

The Main battery cable is a different animal. As far as I know Alltrax is the only manufacture to recommend a fuse on the battery pack connection. They supply a 200 amp fuse with their 300-400 amp controllers and 400a fuse with 500 amps and up. I hope this helps