Driven Clutch 28 degree

[Ted Toth]

I have been told that the holes numbered 1,2 and 3 that you put your spring in the moveable sheave, have a relationship to the three holes on the rim of the moveable sheave. Your other end of the spring goes into your Torque Ramp and it is turned counter clockwise and the hole the spring is in is then lined up with one of these alignment holes. Does any one know how this is done with relationship to the Torque. Kris Dillon indicates the holes numbered 1,2 and 3 that you put the spring into are: 1= less torque, 2 medium, 3 most torque and no reference to the holes in the rim. Thanks

[ruredy]

I know it's kinda early and maybe i'll understand what your saying after more coffee but i'm thinking you have to many holes, anyway use the second one (middle) pre-load the spring 120 degrees. I guess you can try all the holes if you want.

[Ted Toth]

There are 3 holes for one end of the spring in the moveable sheave numbered 1,2 and 3 from left to right. There are 3 holes not completely through on the outer rim of the same sheave. The torque ramp that you put the other end of the spring in its hole is a 36 degree. I was told that you can change the torque by choosing the numbered 1,2 or 3 numberd hole for the spring and rotating the torque ramp counter clockwise to one of the un numbered holes on the rim using the spring hole in the torque ramp as your pointer to the hole on the rim. You can get various amounts by using different holes.

[tonyton]

If there is no reference to the holes on the rim, I would leave it in the original position and try the 1,2,3 only for initial adjustment and testing. There is a sponsor that machines and sets up clutches for your personal needs. I have heard that's the best way to go.
Maybe someone else here has done the spring adjustments and can give you more info. Good Luck.

[Ted Toth]

Thanks Tonyton, I think I will experiment and if I dont get the desired result, I want more torque for climbing and hauling power vs. speed. I will order me a 28 degree clutch and be done with it.

[tonyton]

I have a 28 on my workhorse w 22x11-10 tires. It will spin the tire up a hill before the clutch or belt slip. I've heard parts can be changed and machining done cheaper than a new 28 with better results. CPP is the sponsor that does that. There's a thread in here about shorter belts and clutch mods. If i recall correctly you can put the 28 deg parts in a 36 with good results.
Some people use a 1" shorter belt. It works well, I think you lose a little top speed.
Read the threads at the bottom of this page "similar threads" That will give you lots of info about what I have just mentioned. Talk to you tomorow, If you have more questions, post away. We'll catch em in the am, or someone else may take over? T

[sccowboy]

I have both a 28 clutch and an 89 belt which is 1 in shorter and my cart climbs like a cat.

[pizzamaker]

like tony said you can just buy the 28 degree ramp cup and buttons and do the switch yourself.

this setup go's for about 115.00! the belt fits 94-up

[WILD-BILL]

For every hole you move the spring it will delay the shift of the driven and cause you to stay in low gear that much longer. The tighter and heavier the spring, the longer it will take to shift.

[COURTESYCART]

the last one I built for the customer I put the spring in the number 3 hole with new torque spring, cams and buttons, and that thing would pull a house down. He used it for hunting so speed was no object for him. He wanted pulling power. The car was a 01 TXT with lift and 23" tires. I also put in a new reman eng. It made a big diff just by replacing the buttons.

It is amazing how much those things wear. I used his cart for experiment on which hole to put the srping in. He want max torque and I put it in position 3