'03 CC Pathway - Li converted - Help with next steps (charger and lights)

[lithiumsupplement]

@Nole, a couple more questions (for now)... :)

I got a DC converter for my electronics. New bulbs arrive tomorrow.

I purchased a cheaper converter on amazon than the one recommended on this thread. It is rated for 30A and 300W, which I assumed would be enough for my needs (just the lights for now, also the new headlamps will be LED). I'm guessing I'll need to buy something else if I start adding a bunch of accessories. Let me know if my logic is sound on this.

Also, on the wiring diagram, I understand where all the wires should go except the negative on the load side. Could you point me in the right direction?

Lastly, can I hook this up to one of the two batteries, or does that create balance problems?

Thank you

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by lithiumsupplement

-snip-
Also, on the wiring diagram, I understand where all the wires should go except the negative on the load side. Could you point me in the right direction? 30a is more than you will ever need unless you start a music studio or a nighttime light show. The 4-wire type are not triggered so they are hot all the time. And no, you do not want to switch it from the key...

Look at the "Load" side as what you want all the accessories to connect too. I like to use this https://www.amazon.com/UMISKY-Indica...ateway&sr=8-31 so the Yellow wire would go to the (+) post of the block and the Black wire you questioned would go to the (-) post of the block. Now as you add accessories, they all have a fused power point and a negative termination point.

Lastly, can I hook this up to one of the two batteries, or does that create balance problems? Lol! Yes it would. The pack is paralleled so you want it hooked just as you do the Main Pos and Main Neg.

Thank you

See above....

[Volt_Ampere]

Make sure that the converter is switched by the ignition switch or you will have a constant drain on your batteries - which you do not want! Many converters have an ignition switch trigger wire that disables them when the ignition is off but that one does not.

[NoleFan4Ever]

But again, do not attempt to trigger that type converter by connecting it to the your key switch. That is a 30a converter and your switch is nowhere near designed for that.

You can get you a 48v switched relay and connect it inline if you like....

And in all honesty, if you are going to use the cart most days, you will be fine, but if you leave it sitting for very long periods there will be a degree of a parasitic drain based on how many accessories are in use or have low power needs. (clocks, radios, LED indicators, etc.)

[Volt_Ampere]

The high voltage side is going to be more like 8 amps.

[lithiumsupplement]

Well, everyone. Thank you sincerely for your help. I finally found some time to work on this project and I made a lot of progress over the past couple of days.

The dc reducer is installed, the new 10 amp charger arrived and is installed with the new charging port, added a voltage/watts/amps used meter, and a couple of other improvements!

I have the following questions about my next steps.

1. I installed the new lights and they no longer blow out thanks to the reducer but for some reason when I use the turn signal it just stays on instead of signaling. This is on both sides. Also, not sure but the lights seem a bit on the dim side.

2. Possibly related, but the horn doesn't work. It will make a small sound for a split second but barely audible.

3. The rear right tail light works on the dim filament but not the bright filament. Also, the brake lights appear to work in reverse, where they are bright by default but dim when I hit the breaks.

For context, rather than run each light directly to the fuse block, I connected a red cable that powers all the lights to it. I didn't run a negative to fuse block at all because it seemed to work without it... sort of. Maybe that has something to do with it?

Lastly, the new charger charges to 50.51 volts according to the voltmeter I installed (multimeter reads 50.2) Is this still safe?

Thanks!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by lithiumsupplement

-snip-
I didn't run a negative to fuse block at all because it seemed to work without it... sort of. Maybe that has something to do with it? You need to run any supplied negative connection to the block or a separate negative buss bar

Lastly, the new charger charges to 50.51 volts according to the voltmeter I installed (multimeter reads 50.2) Is this still safe? The 50.2 is most likely correct. Double check it with another VOM.

My part is above.

[lithiumsupplement]

Wanted to follow up. Thanks to everyone here I finished the project in early September, cleaned up all the wiring, and secured all the hardware. Everything (well, just about) works perfectly.

I take it out at least once or twice a day and everyone in town recognizes me and many are interested in getting their own. It's a huge success.

My next project is a significant step up in complexity. I'm converting a 1985 Toyota Corolla hatchback into an EV. Just started removing the original engine yesterday.

Is there a forum that's anywhere near as good as this one for electric conversions? You all made this possible. Can't thank you enough.

[lithiumsupplement]

Also, I do have ONE more project in mind for the cart. I live in an area with uneven roads and potholes. What would be my best option for a smoother ride? Thanks!

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by lithiumsupplement

Also, I do have ONE more project in mind for the cart. I live in an area with uneven roads and potholes. What would be my best option for a smoother ride? Thanks!

A long travel kit for the front. For the rear, light weight springs and air shocks.(I don't have experience with air shocks but everything I've read indicates these are a good option because of adjustability of the air shocks.)