Stealth 72v Night Hawk 4x4 problem

[kgsc]

Just a stab but it sounds like the reversing contactor has failed

[Purple Frog]

Update part 2

I just found the instructions for testing Pin #3 on the Controller.

So... I'm going back to Georgia to do more tests.

[gyroman]

Keep us updated. Remember this test for your F/R switch.

Update: The below test is not applicable to Stealths

Club Car DS Electric Goes Forward But Not Reverse F&R Problem Fix
posted by Bruno | September 13, 2016 | In Golf Cart Repair, Golf Cart Parts |

club car ds 2009 2010 2011 service manual
Will your Club Car DS Electric now run in forward but not reverse? Here is the way to test and fix your problem with your golf cart.

Take the F&R switch out of the black housing under your seat. Swap the brown wire with the blue wire. If the golf cart still has this problem, the controller has gone bad. If the not moving issue changes direction (Will run in reverse, but not forward) the switch has gone bad and need to be replaced.

It is usually that simple. The best case scenario is that you only need to replace the Forward-Reverse F&R switch. You can find a replacement F&R switch for 48 volt carts here. For 36 volt carts here.

Working on your golf cart can be frustrating sometimes, but I hope this helps you solve your issue.

[Sergio]

If Your controller number is what you posted earlier : 60L700NNVSS2 than it is a Series controller (previous FNR test is not applicable) and it uses a 3-wire Voltage throttle and not a 2-wire 5k-0 rheostat throttle.

The Correct voltage on pin #3 should be less than 0.3v with pedal Up and more than 4.65v with pedal all the way Down.

Just pull the terminal wire from #3 enough that you can put the meter probe on the terminal but leave the throttle wire connected.

The above voltage is for the FNR in Forward.

Repeat the test with the FNR in Reverse.

If Your cart has reduced reverse speed, there will be a resistor added to the throttle circuit by a micro-switch that is activated when the FNR is in the Reverse position.

In this case the voltage in Reverse will still start under 0.3v but the max voltage with pedal all the way down will be less than 3v.


The best way to test the Controller output which takes in consideration: Main Solenoid, FNR switch, all high current cables and both Motor windings is:

Raise one of the rear wheels off the ground (or both if limited slip differential).
Put the FNR in Forward
Set the meter to DC 200v
Place meter positive probe on Controller M-
Place meter negative probe on Controller B-

The voltage should be a little less than pack voltage with pedal UP (pre-charge resistor causes a voltage drop).

Press the pedal a little until the Solenoid closes, the voltage will rise to pack voltage since the Solenoid contacts will by-pass the pre-charge resistor.

Continue to press the pedal and the voltage should drop, when the pedal is all the way down the voltage should be 0v.

Repeat the test above with the FNR in Reverse.


If You don't get those results, please post the actual reading you got as that will point to where the failure is occurring.

[gyroman]

Thank you for that correction Sergio, we are just trying to help with limited knowledge about our Stealths since there is no longer any factory info available. Please continue to guide us through this no reverse problem as there is now 2 of our members with no reverse.

[Yourkillinmesmalls]

If this helps anyone I had to replace my throttle controller main box as it fried after upgrading rev forward contactor with a sw202 (i highly recommend over stock junk). I end up having this company rebuild it for around $600. They also sell new for much more. LINK: https://shop.fsip.biz/en/product/con...s=60l700nnvss2This will help if your controller is silver and says FS60L700NNVSS2

You have to fill out a form and send it in. (Took a lil while but I'm good to go now)

Controller wires
B+ to battery + and to motor armature
B- to battery -
M1 output to motor field
J1 Key switch
J2 connect to wire 1 of rheostat
J3 connect to wire 2 of rheostat

[Yourkillinmesmalls]

As mentioned above i replaced my reverse & forward contactor with one heavy duty sw202 (it states reverse contactor only but if your cart is the same as mine it will work. I have a stealth nighthawk 2012 72v all electric.
Link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QTTB9DS...SZKNY0Z17DV37Q

If looking at it from the front you will see 2 bolts connecting in center top(takes green A2 wire on either bolt doesn't matter) the two back bolts connect down to the two back lower side bolts (one gets blue S2 and one gets orange S1 ) yellow M- goes to the ranking bar that is at lower front right of contactor.

..(Blue S2) O-[0 0]-0 (orange S1) .................................................. ......................[0-0] 0 (yellow M-)
.......Green A2^

(if reverse is forward then just switch the low voltage wires at very bottom of contactor) blue and gray/white

[Bama Brad]

Thanks for posting, I'm sure I will need this in the future.

[Bwhite1033]

I am having an issue with my Nighthawk as well. It has been at a Golf cart place since September. They cannot seem to fix it. Ii had the controller rebuilt. I am going to pick it up from them this week. They say that everything has power to it, yet it is not sending power to the main solenoid. Any ideas on what the issue may be or does anyone know who might fix it for me? I live in NW Georgia.

[Bama Brad]

What is the make of the solenoid? Is it the White-Rodgers or the Sw200? Here is diagram for the 64 volt, I would think it's similiar. As you can see, Positive comes straight from Battery positive. Not sure how they can say it's not getting power to solenoid?

Stealth Wiring.PDF