Marathon gas 1985 - Hard starting and no power

[newman0912]

I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.
As described above, it only starts by using the choke no matter if it's hot or cold. Also, it takes several seconds for the engine to fire as you 'feather' the choke to the sweet spot, then it starts. Once started, it runs fantastic with the rear wheels off the ground, but when driving normal it has complete lack of power, although it will continue to run. Here's what I've changed so far:
1. fuel pump
2. spark plug
3. filter - between fuel pump and carb
4. coil and spark plug wire
5. emptied and used new gas - REC 90 (no ethanol)
6. tried running with gas cap loose
7. removed muffler and placed in outside fire - no smoking was visible
8. checked and cleaned air filter
9. removed carburetor and cleaned all jets and openings.
10. engine compression is good
11. I've sprayed starting fluid on all the carburetor flanges while running to see if it's leaking air, it seems fine.

Here's what I've been told to do next:
1. Replace fuel line from tank to carb completely and make sure to have good connections at fuel pump, filter, carb, and fuel tank. As you know, there's a section of fuel line that's metal, about 2 feet long, and there's a thought that somewhere along the fuel line, it's leaking air although I don't smell gas.
2. Replace fuel pump with an electric low volume fuel pump.
3. Remove carb again and double check everything, including float level. I did not check float level on first try.
4. Pour some sea foam into spark plug hole and turn over and let sit for a while.

Other thoughts? I've seen replacement carburetors on Amazon, there must be 20 different ones that are all under $20. I've read that none of them are any good. There's one on Buggies unlimited for $68. I'm ok buying it if it's actually better than the knock-offs on Amazon. I don't even know if I need a new carburetor or not. How do I know for sure?

Thanks!

[cart around]

The only way you need a new carburetor is if the throttle shaft is loose and wobbly.

Do not install an electric pump.

What do you consider good compression? 120 is new 100 is acceptable.

[newman0912]

Thanks. I wondered about the electric pump. I won't install it but can you tell me why?
Compression was 110.
What else should I try?
Thanks.

[cart around]

I'm kind of thinking crankshaft seals, but I would really like to hear it run. Have you tried spraying the seals with starter fluid?

How wide is you drive belt? Anything under an inch is junk. 1 3/16" is new.

The vacuum pump is a great design that delivers enough fuel to the carburetor without overpowering the needle valve. Getting the right electric pump and wiring it to the pedal switch makes it more complicated than it needs to be.

[Dabble Inn]

I agree with NO on the electric fuel pump.......... IF it is crank seals an electric pump won't solve the issue, it'll just be lots of wasted effort.

[meimk]

I've suggested before on other threads and was largely ignored, but check the Reed valve with a string test. With the intake hose out of the way, dangle a piece of string in front of the carb throat. It should draw in toward the carb if the valve is closing as it should. If it's pushing outward the valve isn't closing as it should.

[newman0912]

Ok, no one has ever suggested to me that the reeds are bad. I'm pretty ignorant on that topic. First, I'm assuming they are between the carb and the engine intake but I've never taken that part off.
Are replacement reeds available for this cart engine?
Thanks for a new suggestion.

[meimk]

Do that string test first, before you start randomly changing parts. IF the reeds are not closing it can be as simple as cleaning the surface. After the carb is a curved metal tube that ends at a 4 bolt fairly square flange. The Reed valve is at that square flange, but again don't worry about it unless it tests bad.

[Dabble Inn]

I've always considered the reed valves when you bring it up

To the OP; sadly, reed valves are no longer available for an 85 2pg