OBC Battery Light

[NoleFan4Ever]

It is not that important at all.... I like it, but it is probably more for nostalgia than anything... lol!

Anything it would have blink-coded you, you will probably figure out between the meter and good common sense...

[Harlow42]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

It is not that important at all.... I like it, but it is probably more for nostalgia than anything... lol!

Anything it would have blink-coded you, you will probably figure out between the meter and good common sense...

Many thanks again!
Good common sense is handy but sometimes a Helping Hand is worth it's weight in gold.
All is working as it should and I now have a better understanding of my cart's workings and thanks to you, two Correctly Working PowerDriveChargers!!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Glad to hear it. Have a great weekend!

[Harlow42]

My charger has stopped working again and I posted this elsewhere on the forum but I can't find it now, So I'm sorry if this is double posted, I'll keep looking and delete the dup

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...receptacle.jpg

With just the charger head plugged into the cart's charge receptacle.
In this picture,
pin #3, (Grey Wire) has 50.2 volts
pin #4, (Red Wire) has 0 voltage
pin #5, (Black Wire) has 12.5 volts

Measuring voltage at the pins on the cart's receptacle, with no charger attached,
I still get 50.2 volts on the grey wire, and no voltage on the red wire and 12.5 volts on the black wire coming from the OBD

Inside the PowerDrive charger, with just the just the charger's charge head plugged into the cart's receptacle:
I pulled the red & blue wires off the 48v DC relay and I measure 50.2 volts on the red wire using the carts battery negative for ground.

If I remove all leads from the relay and use two jumpers on the relay's coil, red to carts battery pack for positive and blue to carts battery pack for negative, the relay will click on, (applying 50.2 volts) and I have continuity across the relay's pins for the primary coil lead, to the cicuit breaker, ground pin.

If I were to jump a 10ga wire from the #5 pin (OBD side), the black wire on the charge receptacle, to the pack negative, as per trouble shooting procedures, I would be placing 12.5 to the battery ground.
The relay in the charger cannot work without having a cart ground.
My receptacle (black wire) ground is showing voltage, not cart ground?

I can install a jumper in the charger, (from the charger's fuse, to the transformer secondary lead, I can then charge the cart's batteries.
but the cart's low battery light keeps sending a fault code (one short and one long).
Re-setting the OBD only cures this for one charge cycle.

I did a continuity check on the two fuses at the charger receptacle, both were okay.
I checked the black negative OBD wire, continuity was okay.
I used the continuity check on the charger's internal fuse, it was okay.
My OBD only has the standard black wire from the #6 battery.
The battery pack is three months old, & the controller is 5 years old.
The cart has a voltage reducer, it is 48v, 30 amp, powered 'on' by the ignition key.
I disconnected all accessories, including the voltage reducer and headlights and taillights and I still get 12.5 volts on the #5 pin in the charging receptacle, which comes from the OBD cabling assembly.

Club Cart - 1999 DS regen
Serial Number:

Motor:
Part #: 101854501
Model #: 5BC59JBS6251C
Date Code: RPN N
Bar Code: MOTO4271999054005
Voltage: 48
Horse Power: 3.2
Federal Supply Code: #88422

Controller:
MFG: GE
Part #: IC3645SH4D222C2
Amps: 220
Serial #: SH4D012194F
Date: 9/16/2014

Charger:
PowerDrive 2
Model #: 17930-11
Date Code #:11/97
Serial @: 110705269

Does anyone have any other checks to use to verify my issues?

[Fairtax4me]

pin #3, (Grey Wire) has 50.2 volts
pin #4, (Red Wire) has 0 voltage
pin #5, (Black Wire) has 12.5 volts

Something is fishy here. Are you sure you are measuring in the correct pins, and with the meter black lead going to the battery pack main negative?

The Grey wire should have 0v, or maybe a few hundred mV at most.
The RED wire goes straight to the battery pack Positive. It should show full pack voltage.

The Black wire goes to the OBC and is routed through a semi-conductor regulator circuit so you may get see somewhere in the neighborhood of 11-13V on that pin. So that part is correct.

The bypass instructions are meant to say to Remove the black OBC lead from the receptacle Fuse, and run a NEW 10ga jumper from the Receptacle Fuse to the Pack Negative.

I can install a jumper in the charger, (from the charger's fuse, to the transformer secondary lead, I can then charge the cart's batteries.
but the cart's low battery light keeps sending a fault code (one short and one long).
Re-setting the OBD only cures this for one charge cycle.

This tells us the OBC has failed. Having pack voltage present in the charger shows the connections at the battery pack and at the charge receptacle are good.
If jumping the coil side of the relay makes the transformer turn on and the cart charges, the relay is fine and is not getting ground control from the OBC on the grey wire.
If you only jumped the AC side of the relay, you need to test as above, by jumping the coil negative side to battery pack negative and ensure that the relay clicks on and the transformer hums and the charger ammeter jumps up to indicate that it is actually charging. If that works, the OBC has failed.

[Harlow42]

I am using a test meter probe from the front side of the charger receptacle. The red probe is inserted into the various pin holes and the black probe is attached to the main pack ground. No charger head inserted

I measured the voltage across the receptacle fuse mounting bolts by attaching the red probe to either side of the fuse and the black probe attached to the battery pack negative and I am getting 12.5v on a ground wire? - upper left pin
I am getting full pack voltage 50.2v on the red wire, - bottom left pin
The upper right pin goes to the grey fused wire in the back, 0v and has solid continuity

It seems my dyslexia had kicked in and I had transposed the grey wire and the red wire positions, sorry
My main concern is the black ground having 12.5v and my running this to battery ground

Quote "If jumping the coil side of the relay makes the transformer turn on and the cart charges, the relay is fine and is not getting ground control from the OBC on the grey wire".
This is what I am guessing as well, I am not getting a ground feed inside the charger, which is what is needed to fire the relay.
I have two of the PowerDrive chargers so I can test using two separate chargers, this way I can be sure it's not a charger issue

[Harlow42]

I do have one question, in the PowerDrive charger, there is a red jumper across the two terminals for the coil. In effect, shorting the relay coil's two terminals, how can applying the 50.2v across both terminals turn on the relay coil?

[Sergio]

That right there is what blew up your OBC , specifically the FET inside the OBC that brings that grey wire to negative once it "senses" the battery voltage across the charger relay coil.

There is supposed to be a diode there, not a piece of wire.

The black wire from the charger receptacle goes inside the OBC where it goes through an SCR that modulates the current similar to how a dimmer circuit works, before it connects to your pack negative.

That wire it is not "sourcing" +12v, that is simply the voltage across the electronic circuit that would go away when you unplug the OBC.

[Harlow42]

I have two of the PowerDrive chargers and both chargers are wired with a red jumper. One came with the cart and I bought the second one about a year later, as insurance.
One has been in use since 2001 and all I have had to do to the cart so far was to change one of the carts coils and the controller in 2014. Now about 17 years later, after I had installed all new batteries, the OBD started acting flaky (I had to jumper around the relay in my spare charger to bring the batteries up to 50v before the un-jumpered charger would kick in) The un-jumpered charger seemed okay for about a year, then it no longer would automatically kick in, no matter the battery pack level. I can vouch for the wiring in both units as being factory but heh what do I know what is correct. The red jumper wire does go to the rear heat sink in both chargers

[Sergio]

That is not a wire jumper, there is a diode inline between the two 3/16" tabs on the relay, if it were a simple piece of wire the relay could not turn ON and it would blow the fuse and/or OBC FET.

Do You have a wire diagram for the charger?