1998 club car clicking solenoid wont move

[NYStateOfMind]

I have 1998 club car 48v with brand new batteries. The cart wont move in eaither forward or reverse. When in reverse, the buzzing alarm works. I tested pack voltage to 50V+/-. The solenoid clicks and has 50V at both large terminals. The controller has power going in, and I check the potentiameter for ohms. The microswitches in the f/r switch seem to be ok but im not sure if im testing them correctly, im testing using continuity and clicking them closed. Also the motor has a1, a2, s1, s2 terminals. I can't get continuity across a1 and a2 but get continuity across s1 and a2. does that mean the motor is shot?

[NoleFan4Ever]

You can also measure what the controller is putting out to the motor between the M- on the controller and the B-. The voltage should be about 48vdc (or pack voltage) when the pedal is pushed just enough to engage the solenoid and then decreasing to 0vdc when the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor. If it is erratic or drops a few volts then will not go any further OR jumps back to 48vdc, you have a blown resistor in the back side of the potentiometer.

[NYStateOfMind]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

You can also measure what the controller is putting out to the motor between the M- on the controller and the B-. The voltage should be about 48vdc (or pack voltage) when the pedal is pushed just enough to engage the solenoid and then decreasing to 0vdc when the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor. If it is erratic or drops a few volts then will not go any further OR jumps back to 48vdc, you have a blown resistor in the back side of the potentiometer.

I just measured. I had 0V until I pressed the pedal. Once the pedal engaged the solenoid, the voltage went to 50V. I let off the pedal and the voltage slowly dropped, eventually down to 0V. If i hold the pedal down, the voltage stays at 50V. Does this sound like the resistor? Can it be replaced or do you have to replace the whole unit. Im assuming the "v-glide" is the potentiameter?

[Fairtax4me]

If you have no continuity from motor A1 to A2 there is a problem with the brushes or armature on the motor. Try spinning the wheels while checking for continuity. If it comes and goes, the brushes are likely worn out. Brushes can be replaced, but a motor that age would likely need the armature machined as well.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Yup, that proves the throttle signal and controller output are both good. Now you know you have a motor issue. Time to pull it and inspect.

[Sergio]

I am not sure if the OP edited his original post, but his results show the throttle is not working and the motor has continuity and the FNR high current is properly wired.

I would start by making sure the controller is getting pack voltage on Terminal #1 (closest to the top of the controller) when the pedal is pressed.

If it is, test the voltage on terminal #3 with the yellow wire still connected to make sure the voltage goes from 0v to 5v as you press the pedal.

The 0v to 5v are nominal/approximate voltages, please post the actual voltage reading you measure.

You also want to put that pre-charge resistor back on top of the solenoid big posts when you are done with the troubleshooting.

[NoleFan4Ever]

That or I am going blind (and up too late!)...