8 T-105s Under The Seat Question

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I used a conventional HD F&R but I seriously modified the Pivot shaft..... shortening it and lengthening the linkage. More work than it was worth probably for a one off mod.... I just wanted to see if I could do what the engineers at western avoided.

Originally Posted by scottyb

I cut a length of the middle out of it .... and welded the 2 pcs back together.

A nuisance project but it works.

I'm hoping to modify my FNR this weekend. Do you remember how much of the pivot shaft you removed? I'd hoped to shorten my pivot shaft and move the FNR forward by that amount. Rather than cutting a piece out and welding back together, I plan on line boring and tapping mine, then installing a stud.

With your HD Cam installed, the bolts are lower profile than the stock cam, so I can get it a little closer. I see why you had to lengthen the linkage, in order to avoid conflict with the connecting rod. To avoid welding (which I ain't very good at), I'll probably fabricate a new one.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...mg_5155web.jpg

[scottyb]

I shortened it as much as possible. I know that is not much help but you will see just how much 'extra' length there is of the shaft upon inspection of the F&R. I never did have a measurement, more of a line drawn on the pivot shaft where it comes thru the switch cam on the front side. Everything from the cam forward came off except a small amount (1/8th") for linkage clearance and the small threaded shaft went back on.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I shortened it as much as possible. I know that is not much help but you will see just how much 'extra' length there is of the shaft upon inspection of the F&R. I never did have a measurement, more of a line drawn on the pivot shaft where it comes thru the switch cam on the front side. Everything from the cam forward came off except a small amount (1/8th") for linkage clearance and the small threaded shaft went back on.

Thanks. I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I used a conventional HD F&R but I seriously modified the Pivot shaft..... shortening it and lengthening the linkage. More work than it was worth probably for a one off mod.... I just wanted to see if I could do what the engineers at western avoided.

Originally Posted by scottyb

I cut a length of the middle out of it .... and welded the 2 pcs back together.

A nuisance project but it works.

Originally Posted by yurtle

I'm hoping to modify my FNR this weekend. I'd hoped to shorten my pivot shaft and move the FNR forward by that amount. Rather than cutting a piece out and welding back together, I plan on line boring and tapping mine, then installing a stud.

I see why you had to lengthen the linkage, in order to avoid conflict with the connecting rod. To avoid welding (which I ain't very good at), I'll probably fabricate a new one.

Since I installed a HD FNR cam, I can bolt the old FNR stop, which already has a square hole, to the existing linkage, in order to lengthen it. Then rather than line boring the shortened pivot shaft, tapping it, installing a stud, then filing flats, I can simply cut the pivot shaft short, drill a hole with my drill press, tap it, and simply use a bolt and washer to hold the linkage.

Here's what I have in mind. I'll heat and straighten the new piece, and use two bolts with nylocks to fasten it.

I keep my FNR greased, so I'm not too concerned with fact that the new piece is thinner than the original linkage. Bolting this piece toward the front of the cart will allow me to move my FNR an additional 3/16" (the thickness of the original linkage) plus 3/32" (the thickness of the new piece, since it will slide over the pivot shaft, rather than butting against it) toward the front. Every little bit helps.

I'll need to bolt an additional piece with only a round hole, to keep the new linkage from sliding up and down the pivot shaft.

Maybe I should learn how to weld.

[yurtle]

Since y'all love pics, here are a few.

Rusty battery tray.

Cleaned up and coated with truck bed liner, top and bottom.

Glued two pieces of plywood together, and waiting for initial set. This will support my passenger side battery, since the pan is upside down, relative to the driver's side.

Clamped together to get a good bond.

Coated with truck bed liner on all sides and screwed into place. Battery hold-down holes drilled.

[yurtle]

First battery installed. I drilled the holes for the battery hold-downs in the center of the battery, even though the top strap is more towards the front, to avoid the filler cap. This seems to hold it quite securely, and should keep it from sliding forward while braking.

All batteries in place, to measure for cables.

Aluminum back-plane from my hording neighbor's collection.

Backside. I'll strip it down, cut it to size, and use it for mounting my controller over the motor.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Bolting this piece toward the front of the cart will allow me to move my FNR an additional 3/16" (the thickness of the original linkage) plus 3/32" (the thickness of the new piece, since it will slide over the pivot shaft, rather than butting against it) toward the front. Every little bit helps.

I misspoke. It's true that the FNR can be moved forward 3/16", as my linkage will move forward that amount, but the 3/32" mentioned above is not correct. That dimension is governed by the pivot shaft length, as I still have to maintain clearance from the FNR bolts.

It still looks like it will work, and once the sun gets higher, that is my next step.

Then I'll install the controller and solenoid, so I can measure for cables.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I used a conventional HD F&R but I seriously modified the Pivot shaft..... shortening it and lengthening the linkage. More work than it was worth probably for a one off mod.... I just wanted to see if I could do what the engineers at western avoided.

Why did you reverse the linkage, pointing down rather than up? Was it to avoid conflict with the micros?

Did you also reverse the linkage at the handle?

[yurtle]

OK, the FNR really p!ssed me off, so I decided to make my controller mount. Easy right? Not quite.

This is what I started with.

I tried cutting the nubs off with an angle grinder, then remembered my Sawzall.

Breakthrough.

A mess. The aluminum in the middle was 1/32" lower than the rest, so I had to sand, sand, sand. 0°, 45°, 90°, etc. until it was completely flat.

Finished.

[yurtle]

Here's the controller and aluminum mount/heat-sink, ready for mounting. I'll add thermal paste once I'm done tweaking. I still may add real heat-sinks, if I think I need them.