97 Club Car DS won’t run or charge – Issue with Controller, Charger, or both??

[caokgafamily]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-randomly.html

So is it possible your current prob is some how related to the above prob from 2012?

Steve

[ryanburns22]

No that is not stupid at all. The is actually one of the first things I did. the thing that gets me is that when I installed the new GE (FSIP) controller last night the cart worked fine. Drove it around for a minute, only about 75 yards or so just to test it, but all seemed well. Then when I came back out two hours later and tried to drive it the **** thing would not go!

I did adjust the acceleration on the controller slightly after my first test run with it. But that is nothing that would cause it completely stop working right??

And like I said I tested the voltage output form the controller to the motor and the voltage is not decreasing as I press the pedal. Everything that I have read says that if this is the case then the controller is no good. Which was the same thing that i was getting with the other controller that I took out and replaced with this new one.

[ryanburns22]

I saw this post a week or so ago which prompted me to do some tests on the MCOR. I tested the micro switch in the MCOR and it checked out. I also tested the MCOR input to the controller and it checked out as well. 5 ohms at high pedal and decreased in relation to pressing the pedal down to 0 ohms at full throttle.

Is there some other MCOR test I can run?

[ryanburns22]

I also can’t figure out why it is not charging either. Could this be caused by a bad controller? It just seems to me like these are two completely separate systems independent of each other and that the controller going bad (if that is the case) would not cause the cart not the charge.
Could there be some other issue that could be causing these two things to happen?

[Sergio]

The OBC is part of both systems, but you mentioned that you jumpered the negative side of the solenoid directly to the pack negative, so the OBC would not prevent the solenoid from engaging in this case.
What is the exactly reading of your MCOR, the values you posted are not right.

[ryanburns22]

Ok Sergio... Just checked the MCOR resistance readings again and you're right I was being a little vague earlier.

Exact readings on the MCOR are:

Pedal up - 6.7 ohms
Pedal to the floor - 1 ohms

Is that within an acceptable range?

I gotta tell guys you this thing is really driving me crazy. I’m usually pretty decent at being able to figure things like this out but I’m just about at my whit’s end with this one!

[Sergio]

Assuming you meant 1,000 ohms(1kΩ) to 6,700 ohms(6.7kΩ), then its ok as far as club car setups go.
I don't know if that works for the GE controllers, I will be interested to see the comments from folks with actual experience with that setup.

It would be helpfull to post the actual model# so everyone knows what you have (here is the link for the models descriptions):
http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/STAR%2...%20Ver%20K.pdf
They call their HPD "Accelerator Volts Hold Off" and there would be an "H" in the model number if you had that option.

Also, there was a similar thread not long ago, but unfortunately the outcome was not so good...
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post978541

You can at least see the diagnostic procedures FSIP asked over the phone so when you call them it can save you time.

[caokgafamily]

Ryan,

My cart is the same as yours but a 2001. I ran a 500 FSIP for 2 years and I am now running a 700 FSIP. I have had no probs with my MCOR, I took it off once when I was rebuilding my throttle assembly. I cleaned it back up and reinstalled, on both FSIP controllers I maxed out the 3 screw settings.
Steve

[ryanburns22]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Assuming you meant 1,000 ohms(1kΩ) to 6,700 ohms(6.7kΩ), then its ok as far as club car setups go.
I don't know if that works for the GE controllers, I will be interested to see the comments from folks with actual experience with that setup.

It would be helpfull to post the actual model# so everyone knows what you have (here is the link for the models descriptions):
http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/STAR%2...%20Ver%20K.pdf
They call their HPD "Accelerator Volts Hold Off" and there would be an "H" in the model number if you had that option.

Also, there was a similar thread not long ago, but unfortunately the outcome was not so good...
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post978541

You can at least see the diagnostic procedures FSIP asked over the phone so when you call them it can save you time.

Sergio... The model # on the new FSIP controller that I just installed is 51-42L500NNVS - So no hold off per the model description linked in your post.

I also tested the voltage on each of the 3 pins on the controller per the post that you linked and this is what I got...

Pin 1 (Red Wire) - Pedal up - 0 volts / Pedal down - 51 volts (full pack voltage)

Pin 2 (Green Wire) - Pedal up - 5 volts / Pedal Down - 5 volts (No change)

Pin 3 (Yellow Wire) - Pedal up - 0 volts / Pedal down - 5 volts (voltage increased in direct relation with pedal input)

This all seems correct to me but my knowledge is limited. What do you guys think? (about the readings, not about my knowledge...)

[jjance]

At this point I would try to run the motor standalone. Hook it up to a 12 or 24vdc source and see if it will run w/o the controller attached. Make your finally connection to the battery with a car battery jumper cable just in case the motor is shorted and you need to disconnect it quickly. And of course raise the wheels off the ground and use all safety precautions.