Wiring Key switch,relay,reducer, fuse block, switches

[Rvasq]

Okay, I’ve seen allot of posts about different ways to run the wiring for accessories but my plan is to run a relay from the key switch. I want the relay to power on my reducer (4wire, no key switch wire). My reducer will then power 12v to my fuse block as it is a 36v to 12v reducer. I have rocker switches that will control my accessories to the fuse block. Can somebody help me out with a wiring diagram. Specifically the key switch to relay to and how to tie the relay into making it power the reducer. I understand how things work but not very electrical savvy. I appreciate any feedback or advise. Thanks.

[Htownblue]

A standard 48v relay you may find used often has a 12v “switch” which can be the positive feed to your accessory output positive on a fused buss bar etc. which is effectively turned “on” by the 48v key switch. Wired in line with the output 48v at the key switch.

[yawood]

Originally Posted by Rvasq

Okay, I’ve seen allot of posts about different ways to run the wiring for accessories but my plan is to run a relay from the key switch. I want the relay to power on my reducer (4wire, no key switch wire). My reducer will then power 12v to my fuse block as it is a 36v to 12v reducer. I have rocker switches that will control my accessories to the fuse block. Can somebody help me out with a wiring diagram. Specifically the key switch to relay to and how to tie the relay into making it power the reducer. I understand how things work but not very electrical savvy. I appreciate any feedback or advise. Thanks.

That is pretty much how I have wired mine. My relay is the T9AP1D52-48 but there will be a 36V equivalent. I added another switch so that I can switch the relay (& therefore the voltage converter) off, if I want to, even when the key switch is on. Conversely, the relay will be off whenever the key switch is off (no matter what position the toggle is in). The output from the converter goes straight to the distribution board and each accessory switch goes between a fuse on the distrubution board and the accessory.

If you don't want the additional toggle switch just ignore it in the diagram and connect the key switch directly to the relay.

[cohen]

I’m looking to do this but slightly opposite, I have a 5wire reducer but I want to have key switch wired AND also be able to bypass it so the voltage reducer constantly on even without key... thoughts on wiring?

[Sergio]

I answered it in your other thread

[MrM3buggy]

Does anyone have a picture of the key switch and what prong you tapped into ? On the 48vdc key on side ?

[mrgolf]

If it is electric it is Just two wire. The lug on the right is the cold side. The one on the left gets the green 48 volt hot battery wire.

[MrM3buggy]

Originally Posted by mrgolf

If it is electric it is Just two wire. The lug on the right is the cold side. The one on the left gets the green 48 volt hot battery wire.

Great thank you . Found it !! Another one for you . On the diagram provided , I understand all the wiring except for -48VDC coming from wire loom that ties into relay # 85 any idea where that is coming from? I see if the voltage reduce is tied into -48vdc B from controller black and yellow bullet connector where is the second coming from.

[yawood]

Originally Posted by MrM3buggy

Great thank you . Found it !! Another one for you . On the diagram provided , I understand all the wiring except for -48VDC coming from wire loom that ties into relay # 85 any idea where that is coming from? I see if the voltage reduce is tied into -48vdc B from controller black and yellow bullet connector where is the second coming from.

That is coming from any convenient negative point on the 48V wiring. This is the low current side of the relay (that current just pulls the relay on) so it does not matter so long as it is -48V.

The heavy current comes from the B- connection. Here's a modified diagram.

[MrM3buggy]

Originally Posted by yawood

That is coming from any convenient negative point on the 48V wiring. This is the low current side of the relay (that current just pulls the relay on) so it does not matter so long as it is -48V.

The heavy current comes from the B- connection. Here's a modified diagram.

Great thanks for all the assistance. I’m Waiting to connect everything right , when I purchased everything was ran off 16 volts, or 8volts, I considered just putting in a marine on off switch from +48 on main pack to my now installed converter to shut it off, seems like the easy way but not the right way . Glad I found this thread and appreciate the leg work you did .