Need Schematic for V-glide F/R switch

[Budule]

The vglide bypass is nice , but , in my experience , they dont really have any issues at full voltage , its when your at less than full throttle that things get melty.....

[Sergio]

I agree, not just partial throttle, but partial pad overlap.

The other "flaw/shortcoming" of that design is when the Wiper pad barely touches the next pad in the VGlide, the entire current goes through the small portion of the wiper pad making contact on the next VGlide pad.

Unfortunately You have no way to avoid that so it is best to minimize partial throttle driving if possible.

The by-pass activates the new Solenoid as soon as the wiper arm barely touches the top pad and does not release it until the wiper arm is almost fully over the previous pad.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I agree, not just partial throttle, but partial pad overlap.

The other "flaw/shortcoming" of that design is when the Wiper pad barely touches the next pad in the VGlide, the entire current goes through the small portion of the wiper pad making contact on the next VGlide pad.

Unfortunately You have no way to avoid that so it is best to minimize partial throttle driving if possible.

The by-pass activates the new Solenoid as soon as the wiper arm barely touches the top pad and does not release it until the wiper arm is almost fully over the previous pad.

I have not worked on a lot of resistor carts, but one of the first things I did notice the issue of pad overlap. I guess the more you can run WOT, the better.

[Sergio]

A properly adjusted VGlide will have the most pad overlap at WOT, but under torque conditions WOT is worse than partial throttle since that is when the most current can flow through the VGlide.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Sergio

A properly adjusted VGlide will have the most pad overlap at WOT, but under torque conditions WOT is worse than partial throttle since that is when the most current can flow through the VGlide.

I am trying to help a guy who burned up a brand new wiper in less than an hour. As best as I can tell, he has it wired correctly EXCEPT he had the 18v reverse wire connected to neg instead of pos.

I thought for sure that was the culprit, but looking at the schematics and wiring diagrams, as best as I can tell, all that would have done was create a neg-neg connection and keep the cart from running in reverse.

On the back side of the wiper the nuts holding the last two wires are almost touching. I have not checked with meter to see if they are, but it does not seem like that could be the culprit.

He said the cart acted like it was struggling, did not have full power. Cart rolls relatively free, brakes/rear end do not seem to be binding.

The only other thing I can think of is, given the fact that his old wiper and new wiper BOTH melted is that maybe the motor is shorted internally and pulling too many amps. Anything obvious I am missing?

[Sergio]

The Reduced voltage connection can go to a positive battery post or the negative post of the other battery connected by the same cable.

A few things to check:

The throttle linkage may not be adjusted properly preventing the wiper arm pad from fully overlapping the last post.

A broken resistor coil is hard on the first pad after the breakage.

The wiper arm was not adjusted to be parallel with the contact pads which reduces the contact surface area.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The Reduced voltage connection can go to a positive battery post or the negative post of the other battery connected by the same cable.

A few things to check:

The throttle linkage may not be adjusted properly preventing the wiper arm pad from fully overlapping the last post.

A broken resistor coil is hard on the first pad after the breakage.

The wiper arm was not adjusted to be parallel with the contact pads which reduces the contact surface area.

I will check all of those things.

One last question. I am trying to help the guy out since he just fried his brand new V-Glide. I have an old CC Multi-step potentiometer that I can give him. It looks almost identical to the v-glide except for the resistors between the posts. Can he remove the resistors and use that for his v-glide?

Thanks again for all of your help.

[Sergio]

I think so, just wire it back together and make sure the wiper arm pad is parallel to the VGlide pads and that it goes all the way to the "bumper" stop at WOT without putting pressure on the VGlide body.

To check the wiper arm is parallel to the pads Club Car recommends painting the pads surface with removable ink then sweep the wiper arm across them several times to make sure at least 30% of the copper in each pad is visible.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The Reduced voltage connection can go to a positive battery post or the negative post of the other battery connected by the same cable.

A few things to check:

The throttle linkage may not be adjusted properly preventing the wiper arm pad from fully overlapping the last post.

A broken resistor coil is hard on the first pad after the breakage.

The wiper arm was not adjusted to be parallel with the contact pads which reduces the contact surface area.

You nailed it, the first resistor coil was broken, it was not evident until he removed the coil cover. However, it looks like it melted more on the top end of the V-glide, so there may also be a second problem.

I am going to help him check the other coils and replace that one coil, replace with properly adjusted V-Glide and watch it closely for excess heat on the test runs.