Battery readings

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by scottginfla

Was that desufation artical to much for you to grasp?

If you want to waste YOUR money on gizmos and gadgets, you go right ahead. But if you think I'm gonna stand down on the issue and let you sucker our members into the same mistake when you don't even know basic electricity, you are mistaken.

[scottginfla]

True, I was thinking about load testing each batt. My bad. Or due you guys have a way to do that while still connected in the pack?

I was trying to help the guy without getting into too much detail, some people get confused hooking up leads to a + and - while still in the pack, and wires are running from + to -

Hey Gornoman, I dont know where you get off saying that, but the fact of the matter is desulfaters work, if you don't get it then fine, but the proof is all over the place if you do a little looking around.

[tvj503]

Thanks folks.......I just bought the cart and my batteries are December 09...I'm just curious as to what the readings are.....

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by tvj503

Thanks folks.......I just bought the cart and my batteries are December 09...I'm just curious as to what the readings are.....

When you go to auto store to buy digital voltmeter, pick up a battery tester for about $5-10 that measures the specific gravity (SG) of the individual cells while you are there . . . another valuable tool for diagnosing battery issues . .

[azboo]

Originally Posted by scottginfla

"Welcome to the 21st century!" I see that got under your skin Was that desufation artical to much for you to grasp?

desulfation article

[ForBruce]

Battery Desulphator Reprinted

If a 12V lead-acid battery sits with a voltage below 12.3V, (normal use) sulfur crystals will begin to form on the internal lead plates.

This crystal growth decreases the battery’s ability to hold a charge; and eventually makes the battery unusable.

Temperatures over 70F degrees accelerate crystallization buildup and sulphated battery plates is the primary cause of poor battery performance.

Normal recharging converts soft, recently formed crystals back to its component of pure sulfuric acid.

As batteries age the sulphate crystals become larger and harder thus making charging less effective.
Crystals also shortens the battery’s use between charges .

A battery desulphator sends high frequency radio waves through the battery to create a vibration resonance that will break up the crystals.

And a battery desulphator with advanced electronics will remove ALL the sulphate crystals not just one size.

The better more expensive desulphating units use MULTI-FREQUENCY pulses of Radio waves to set up an oscillation (vibration ) which jars, crushes, grinds and dissolves ALL SIZE sulphide crystals so they can be recombined into the sulphuric acid of the battery.

This action is similar to an ultrasonic cleaner used to vibrate jewelry clean.
We at XXXXXXXX do not advise buying desulphators in the $100 range as they are not multi frequency and only dissolve certain size crystals leaving the rest to ruin your battery.

The bottom line is a good Desulphator can actually DOUBLE you battery’s output and useful life.

Besides the multi frequency type also look for one that turns on automatically when your battery charger turns on . What we call , “install it and forget it“.

[ForBruce]

Originally Posted by tvj503

I am about as mechanical as a cactus so you'll have to forgive me. I see on several posts references to readings on batteries such as 12.1, 12.3 etc. What does that mean? And how is it measured...with a voltmeter? Thanks!

you can buy the digital volt meter at "home Depot" rather inexpensive.... but instead of learning to work the meter , considering you are not familiar with "electric "...

the more simplier route is the "HYDROMETER" that all auto parts stores have for under $6.

You use this device to suck out some water /acid from each cell (water chamber) of the battery and measure the "specific gravity" of the solution.

the Hydrometer with have a "SCALE" which compares the specific gravity to the "recharge-fair- good" condition of each cell in the battery.

a bad cell in a battery that has multi-cells leads to impending failure of the entire battery.

more so a bad cell in just one battery can DRAG DOWN your entire battery pack of 4 or more batteries.... cause a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.

see photo of Hydrometer

[scottyb]

You can get a good digital 7 function multimeter at Lowes or Walmart. Home depot sells a Sperry (42-4400 series) that sells for under $50. I've had that meter for 4-5 years, no problem just a new 9v battery every year or so... it's as accurate as my more expensive meters and quite rugged. Be sure to read the owners manual and try all the test functions per the manual or on line instruction.....
Use the State of Charge Table listed below for reference when testing an individual battery (no need to disconnect) or series packs.
Every electric cart owner should own and know how to use a digital multimeter. (DMM)

[tvj503]

Thanks to all for the very good information......plan to make my purchases tonight and tomorrow I will check (and play)...thanks again!

[tvj503]

Got the voltmeter and took the readings this afternoon. The batteries are Trojan 1275 (December, 2009) and were fully charged about 48 hours ago. They have remained on the charger since being charged. The readings were 12.3, 12.3, 12.48 and 12.01. The 12.01 was the battery directly underneath the drivers seat against the outside wall. The 12.48 was the battery underneath the passenger seat against the outside wall.....don't know if that means anything. How do these readings sound? I plan to check the cells tomorrow in the 12.01 battery.