Solenoid clicks but wont move --- ITS testing

[ncseadad]

If you look at my first message, this is the first test I used....

EZGO Diagnostic testing for Ezgo Solid State speed Control Systems

Testing of the EZGO ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - SERIES & PDS (NON DCS)
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
PLACE THE REAR OF THE CART SECURELY ON BLOCKS OR JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) battery post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage and the amount of POWER TO THE CONTROLLER -
NOW, Key switch ON, gear selector in FORWARD, Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).
Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.
Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.

ITS test...testing the solenoid, I have pack voltage on battery side but nothing on the controller side. (no diodes on solenoid). That is with the key/F/R switch on or off. When the solenoid click I have pack volts on both sides. Is that solenoid bad because it does show any volts until the pedal is pushed and solenoid clicks..

OK...continuing on with ITS testing...ALL voltage in the test is dead on until you get to where you are checking controller output. Connect (-) probe to M- terminal. Connect (+) probe to B+. The reading is 0 which it should be however when I press on the pedal it stays on 0 and does not climb to pack volts...



Next was....:Good, you get pack voltage between B- and M- when solenoid clicks.

Slowly push pedal to floor and the voltage should smoothly decrease to near 0V.

If not, either the controller or throttle is bad.

The check the ITS (Throttle) use the procedure Scotty posted (it is for a DCS, but the voltages are the same.)

I have pack volts between B- and M- but nothing when depressing pedal.


You are correct the ITS test is same for both DCS and PDA and as stated in first post all readings are dead on...If the ITS is ruled out that leaves the controller is bad...Ok..the solenoid has NO volts on controller side until solenoid is clicked. where or what is that lack of voltage from...Would a bad controller have anything to do with that.

Thanks...

FYI....no tow switch....

[ncseadad]

ScottyB....funny you should say that...I held on to my flip phone as long as I could...It finally went out a couple months ago...loved it...lol

OK...I think a picture should come through

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ncseadad

Snip -------------
1. I have pack volts between B- and M- but nothing when depressing pedal.

2. You are correct the ITS test is same for both DCS and PDA and as stated in first post all readings are dead on...

3. If the ITS is ruled out that leaves the controller is bad...Ok..

4. the solenoid has NO volts on controller side until solenoid is clicked. where or what is that lack of voltage from...Would a bad controller have anything to do with that.

Thanks...

5. FYI....no tow switch....

1. does this mean the voltage remains at pack voltage when pedal is depressed or does it mean the drops to nothing (Zero) when the pedal is depressed?

2. The ITS voltage is the sane for series drive and DCS drive, it is different for PDS drives. You have a series drive.

3. Yes.

4. The solenoid is an electro-mechanical switch. When it is energized, the switch contacts are closed and you will read the same voltage on both large terminals. When it isn't energized the contacts will be open and you will read voltage on one large terminal and no voltage on the other. What you are seeing is normal.

5. That further verifies that you have a series drive and the picture proves it.

[ncseadad]

Yes Sir....Pack volts between B- and M-.....and nothing happens when I press on the peddle...It does not move, it doesn't go up or down,,,,,it doesn't pass go.....stays at pack voltage...

Fair to say controller bad....

Thanks you....

[mgray70]

Have you checked the 4 pin Molex connector plug located between the ITS and controller? The can get corroded and cause the ITS signal to not reach the controller.

[ncseadad]

mgrey70...Yes Sir...have checked wires and continuity plus the volts test between ITS and controller are on the money...

Thnaks

[ncseadad]

JohnnieB...The test I listed a couple replies back was the correct test for this cart...correct..

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ncseadad

JohnnieB...The test I listed a couple replies back was the correct test for this cart...correct..

If you have full battery pack voltage between B- and M- after the solenoid clicks and the voltage doesn't decrease to about zero as the pedal is pushed to the floor, either the controller or the ITS is most likely bad.

If the ITS voltages are good at the controller, then the controller is most likely bad.

I say "most likely" because I cannot be 100% sure without the cart sitting in front of me and using my own test equipment.

[ncseadad]

Hey that's great JohnnieB.

Im old and retired and have 1984 RV that needs to go on the road...Send me your address and we can check it out together.....What say....

Bill

[ncseadad]

UPDATE.....Rebuilt controller and cart works fine....Thanks everyone for your help...

Bill