EzGo 3pg HEI Install Fail Please Help

[The Hurling Buffalo]

And now were back to having no spark. This HEI mod has literally disabled my cart. I dont know which part is bad or how to test them.

[The Hurling Buffalo]

Please Help...

[Sean5545]

Ok let's start with your fuel flow issue and go from there. How is the pressure coming out of the hole in the engine under the fuel pump when you crank the engine over?

[Sean5545]

As for the hei conversion from what I've read, heat dissipation on the control module is extremely important. You need to mount it to preferably a piece of aluminum with the heat sink compound provided with it or it will overheat and burn out. Also a ground wire must be run to one of the mounting bolts for the hei control module as well as the metal case of the new coil. Also if your new cool had 4 terminals it's important to make sure you were on the correct 2 with proper polarity. I'll look up the test numbers in a few minutes.


EDIT: Why did you do the HEI mod in the first place?

[Sean5545]

Here's a like on how to test your pulsar

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...puttering.html

[The Hurling Buffalo]

Ok, the pressure coming out of the port that feeds vacuum to the fuel pump feels like it has decent pressure. I found a small piece of plastic lodged in one of the plastic valves inside the pump and removed it but still no fuel. I removed the spark plug and turned it over and fuel began to pump again strongly, I replaced the spark plug and no more fuel flow. I had been trying to investigate the crank case seals being the fuel issue with the ether spray around the seals when I realized it had no spark either again. This is all after 15 minutes of it running after the HEI swap. Now back to the beginning... so my old coil was getting very corroded and the wire was really old and bad so I opted to do the swap. It was still running fine just starting to get slower to start up so before it died (as we rely on it being disabled) I figured I would get it done. I have ohm'd out the Pulsar coil and found it to be 155 which indicates a working Pulsar coil. I am swapping the coil out tomorrow morning and adding a ground to it as I did not know it needed it being metal to metal. I did add the one to the module during the swap as it was shown in the diagram. I thought it might be a fuel delivery issue after another member referred me to a link that said a torn diaphragm can cause issues with the same symptoms. I believe it to be the crank seals but i like to test that theory before tearing it apart lol. But alas no spark...

[Sean5545]

The metal to metal connection would be fine as long as it's electrically sound, for example you removed the paint.....otherwise it could be hit or miss as to whether your making the ground connection or not. Was the pressure out of the fuel pump hole enough to try to blow your finger off of the hole? Or just a little puff? Do you know where the plastic piece came from? Was it a part of the fuel hose? A part of the pump or just tank debris?

[The Hurling Buffalo]

Oh yeah I ground it to bare metal really nice and shiny. I am going now to get the new new coil and see if that is the issue. Some of the terminals seem looser than they should to me anyway. I'll update in a bit on my findings. The plastic bit appeared to be the same material as the tank so I am figuring it was that.

[The Hurling Buffalo]

Ok so now I have spark and fuel and no boom :( Tried starting fluid and still no boom... Fire plus fuel makes boom WTF? It has never once smoked as to indicate ring failure. I guess my next step is compression testing it. Can someone concur or direct me in the right path if im wrong lol.

[Sean5545]

Well when my crank seal popped out starting fluid did nothing to help it start....at all. I think you may have been right all along with your crank seals. You can your top end compression but this well do nothing to show you the status of the bottom end seals. Maybe a vacuum test on the lower with a handheld pump through the fuel pump hole.