Scratching my head, need help

[Mbbtc]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Yes you can. If I recall, just remove the center nut. It's real intuitive. If it looks good, I'd clean with a Scotchbrite, or very fine emory cloth, lube and reassemble. I tightened the center nut as tight as I could and still have it operate. Use dielectric grease around electrodes and it will turn more easily. If you can, remove the FNR from the lower bracket, then you won't need to adjust it wrt the linkage.

There's a step by step troubleshooting steps in chapter E of the manual in the stickies.

http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28646.pdf

Ok, thanks!

[Mbbtc]

Spoke with the controller Mfgr this morning to verify their results. They ran it on the test bench, checked good. Sent it to their final check where it's put through a series of load checks simulating in cart useage and it checked good. Their recommendation was to chase wires....

Should have the controller back in a day or two and I'll get back to troubleshooting. Will also look at what y'all have mentioned...THANK YOU!! I'll let chat know what I find out.

[yurtle]

If the solenoid clicks, we are chasing cables, not wires.

Low current control wires make the solenoid click, and are reed switch, MS2, KSI, MS4 to solenoid. If the solenoid clicks, the only other low current control wires are the ITS. Don't recall if you did this, but like the reed switch, the attached should be bypassed. Having a bad contact on either black or white wires to the ITS will fail to tell the controller to go.

It's a molex connector and has 4 wires, 2 for MS3 and 2 for ITS. It's usually located between FNR and controller.

[Brob1969]

I recently rebuilt two FNR switches, both of which appeared fairly okay externally, but were not making good contact when engaged.

The center nut is a 9/16" once removed the actuator separates from the board. If any of the terminals are recessed, then you will need to replace the board. They can be purchased separately. Also be sure that all the copper terminals are nice and shiny while it's apart. It's a fairly simple chore.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[Mbbtc]

Re-installed the controller today and tested...solenoid still clicks, no go. Started at step one in the ezgo troubleshooting steps...got to step 27 voltage btwn battery neg and ITS white wire should be 13 to 15.5v had 13.8. Checked continuity for white wire to controller pin connector, checks good. (previously had a 4 wire plug btwn controller and pedal box that was burnt up so I hard wired all wires). Next step directed to pull pedal box and check ITS & plunger cam adjustment, I referred to manuals ITS test and replacement I should have .4 to .6v at solenoid click and 1.5 to 1.7v at full throttle. I read 13.8v at both checks, says replace ITS. Any other tests for this part or thoughts?

[Mbbtc]

Originally Posted by yurtle

If the solenoid clicks, we are chasing cables, not wires.

Low current control wires make the solenoid click, and are reed switch, MS2, KSI, MS4 to solenoid. If the solenoid clicks, the only other low current control wires are the ITS. Don't recall if you did this, but like the reed switch, the attached should be bypassed. Having a bad contact on either black or white wires to the ITS will fail to tell the controller to go.

It's a molex connector and has 4 wires, 2 for MS3 and 2 for ITS. It's usually located between FNR and controller.

I found this connector to be bad so I hard wired all wires...still no go.

[scottyb]

It is possible the solenoid is just making a clicking noise and not actually closing the bridge.

[radioman]

Check the pedal box micro switch and be sure you used one with normally closed contacts. If you used normally open contacts you may be hearing the solenoid drop out when you press the pedal and energize when you release the pedal (Been there done that). A simple voltage test on the big lugs of the solenoid will usually tell you what the solenoid is doing when clicks.

[Mbbtc]

Originally Posted by radioman

Check the pedal box micro switch and be sure you used one with normally closed contacts. If you used normally open contacts you may be hearing the solenoid drop out when you press the pedal and energize when you release the pedal (Been there done that). A simple voltage test on the big lugs of the solenoid will usually tell you what the solenoid is doing when clicks.

Already replaced the pedal box micro switch. What do you mean by "normally open or closed contacts"? I read the volts out per the ergo manual and they were within standards. Thanks.

[Mbbtc]

Originally Posted by scottyb

It is possible the solenoid is just making a clicking noise and not actually closing the bridge.

The voltage & continuity check within standards, any other test to check it out? Thanks.