Smoking Control Box

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by 89redgt

Heres the latest. I tested the solenoid for continuity and the terminals are not “welded Closed” as the manual mentions. It then says if the contacts are not welded and the wiring to the solenoid is good, the coil has failed and the solenoid must be replaced. How do I know if the wires are good?

moving on to the flowchart.. key on, direction F, pedal down just enough to hear the solenoid click. Next with the pedal fully depressed checking the voltage between B+ and M- I get 1.5V and then the box starts smoking and making a crackling noise. I can see seen vapors of smoke emanating from The seams of the box. Shut off the power and disconnected the battery cables.
So that Concludes my test, obviously my box is toast. Has anyone else experienced such an event? My concern is if I replace the box with another good unit that the same problem may happen again because of some other exterior problems that I’m not aware of nor know how to test for.. What should I do next

Obviously repeat and post pics and vids.

I haven't heard of this before but maybe someone else has? As to the blue wire above, ? There is a blue wire from the key switch to MS2, but that looks like a pretty large ring terminal. The low current side of the controller consists of a number of safety switches that all have to be satisfied before the controller will even power up. There is a possibility of a bad cable on the high current side, but I'd think that would also have heated up and smoked. I'd inspect each cable, but probably would start reading the link I gave you for upgrades. You see what I have in my sig, and I got it all from ScottyB, Carts Unlimited. Think about how you see using the cart, and if you need those really big diameter tires. You can get the controller now, and ScottyB can confirm whether anything in your cart can cause it to take up smoking, or whether it has enough safeties built in. Then you will need to decide how much upgrading to do now and how much can wait. An SR48500, which I have, can easily work on 36 volts now and 48 volts later on.

[89redgt]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Obviously repeat and post pics and vids.

I haven't heard of this before but maybe someone else has? As to the blue wire above, ? There is a blue wire from the key switch to MS2, but that looks like a pretty large ring terminal. The low current side of the controller consists of a number of safety switches that all have to be satisfied before the controller will even power up. There is a possibility of a bad cable on the high current side, but I'd think that would also have heated up and smoked. I'd inspect each cable, but probably would start reading the link I gave you for upgrades. You see what I have in my sig, and I got it all from ScottyB, Carts Unlimited. Think about how you see using the cart, and if you need those really big diameter tires. You can get the controller now, and ScottyB can confirm whether anything in your cart can cause it to take up smoking, or whether it has enough safeties built in. Then you will need to decide how much upgrading to do now and how much can wait. An SR48500, which I have, can easily work on 36 volts now and 48 volts later on.

Ha!! Thats all I need , a 1000lbs of flaming plastic and molten lead in my garage..

I'll check on the cables but it was definitely coming from the box, the problem is that now I have a ounce of knowledge, I want a 48volt cart and upgrade that rather than chase that high with my 36v. sounds crazy?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by 89redgt

Ha!! Thats all I need , a 1000lbs of flaming plastic and molten lead in my garage..

I'll check on the cables but it was definitely coming from the box, the problem is that now I have a ounce of knowledge, I want a 48volt cart and upgrade that rather than chase that high with my 36v. sounds crazy?

I know you said the main culprit was the controller, but I was thinking out loud about your question, (paraphrasing) if I pop a new controller in, will it just go up in smoke as well? I said not likely on the low current side - wires - but maybe on the high current side - cables.

Since you have new batteries, you could get two more and put one under the driver's seat and one in the bag well. At battery change time, you can buy six 8 volt batteries.

[89redgt]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I know you said the main culprit was the controller, but I was thinking out loud about your question, (paraphrasing) if I pop a new controller in, will it just go up in smoke as well? I said not likely on the low current side - wires - but maybe on the high current side - cables.

Since you have new batteries, you could get two more and put one under the driver's seat and one in the bag well. At battery change time, you can buy six 8 volt batteries.

Ya, I thought of that with the batteries and I was thinking of getting some 2g welding cable and make up some new ones since I have a copper lugs and hydraulic crimper.
I can see why an old resistive cable would cook the FNR switch or solenoid but don't understand why faulty cables would cause the box to malfunction..i guess I don't totally understand how it works, I was just thinking the batteries provide the pack voltage at the box and it acts like a faucet controlled by the ITS feeding the motor amps

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by 89redgt

Ya, I thought of that with the batteries and I was thinking of getting some 2g welding cable and make up some new ones since I have a copper lugs and hydraulic crimper.
I can see why an old resistive cable would cook the FNR switch or solenoid but don't understand why faulty cables would cause the box to malfunction..i guess I don't totally understand how it works, I was just thinking the batteries provide the pack voltage at the box and it acts like a faucet controlled by the ITS feeding the motor amps

High resistance/faulty/inadequate cables should NOT kill anything. A stock FNR and/or solenoid would overheat from current alone, irrespective of the cables feeding them. The two exceptions would be a cable with a bad end, that allows its heat to transfer into another device, or several cables that have enough wear to cause them to short circuit. A short circuit has lower resistance than the normal load, and "might" overload a controller, if it doesn't have over-current protection built in, something I don't know.

There are several "wear spots" in a series cart where the cables head toward the motor, and contact the frame near the passenger side.