2011 EZGO TXT Solenoid clicks but motor not turning

[NoGo-EzGo]

I'm going to preface this by saying I can work on motors and plenty of other things but when it comes to electrical circuits, I have the knowledge of about an 8 year old... I do have a Digital Multimeter but my biggest challenge is understanding how to use it.

My golf cart is a 2011 EZGO TXT Gas, I have had issues with the cart not starting up immediately, but instead it would do a humming noise for about 10 seconds, then begin turning over and then go. I am assuming this is an issue with the Starter, However, a more pressing issue I am having is that suddenly the motor isn't doing anything other than the Solenoid click.

Suspecting it to be a bad Solenoid, I ordered a replacement from Amazon using the part number found on the old Solenoid. The one I ordered was listed as "Pro-Po Parts Shop New 14 Volt 4 Cycle Solenoid for 1994-Up EZGO E-Z-GO TXT Gas Golf Cart 612813, 27153-G01".

I installed the new Solenoid and the cart ran perfect for about 15 minutes and after a very short break it went right back to the Solenoid click again.

With the help of Google and many previous previous posts on this forum I have been able to determine a few things... My battery is reading 12.49 volts, the Large post on the solenoid that the battery cable connects also reads 12.49. The B post on the solenoid with the red wires reads 10.4 volts. The other B post reads .2 volts.

With the ignition on, the gas pedal pressed and the solenoid clicked I have 0 volts reading on the Large post on the Solenoid which leads to the Starter.

I did use a thicker wire to briefly "jump" the large posts of the solenoid and the engine did turn over.

My initial thought is the Solenoid is bad, but I question that due to it being New with only about 15 minutes of use on it.

Can someone please point me in the right direction to get this issue diagnosed?

[CP241]

Think you have more than one thing happening...

First, the amazon/ebay aftermarket solenoids are garbage. I've had carts almost catch fire because of them. I'd start by putting the original.back in, I dont think there was anything wrong with it.

What kind of condition are your starter/generator brushes in? I'd start by reading this thread. Lot of good info there

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gener...ultimeter.html

[NoGo-EzGo]

Originally Posted by CP241

Think you have more than one thing happening...

First, the amazon/ebay aftermarket solenoids are garbage. I've had carts almost catch fire because of them. I'd start by putting the original.back in, I dont think there was anything wrong with it.

What kind of condition are your starter/generator brushes in? I'd start by reading this thread. Lot of good info there

Thank you for your reply!

To be perfectly honest, I removed the rubber gasket covering one of the brushes on the Starter/ Generator and it "appeared" good to me, but I don't particularly know what I am looking at. I'll go ahead and order a set of new brushes and replace them while I'm at it... doesn't seem that it would hurt anything if I replaced them early and their not really expensive...

Also, the URL you posted is sending me to a page explaining something about me not having permissions to view...?

[Timberwolflt]

I’d check your connections to the s/g... It’s either getting the required voltage or not... that humming is due to improper voltage getting to the starter... it’s also the sound an electric motor makes when you’re cooking the windings so quit doing that... leave the starter belt off until you identify and rectify the problem

I’m no electric motor expert but I do have quite the impressive resume’ when it comes to frying them... you could say I’m a gourmet chef

[CP241]

Maybe you're too new or need a few more posts to.view the link... it's a detailed explanation of how to use a multi-meter.

Please dont order parts and start replacing stuff without diagnosing and condemning it as bad first. Thats a very expensive and frustrating way to fix a car/truck/golf cart/whatever. Theres plenty of people.here that are happy to help walk you through exactly what you want to test and how it should read. Just gotta get the basics first (namely, how to read and use the various functions and settings of a meter). I've worked on cars, trucks, buses, atv's, whatever for years. My fluke meter has always been the most important tool in my.box. and coincidentally the tool that has made me.more money professionally than any other tool in the box as well.

[cart around]

You need to load test the battery. Put the meter on the battery terminals. Step on the pedal and watch for a voltage drop. It goes to 9.6 volts or less, the battery failed the load test.