Rebuilding my 84(?) EZGO. Few questions..

[Plumbergs]

Hi Guys.. I'm sure most of these questions have been asked before, but I'm wanting a little reassurance before I tear into this thing so I'm making a new thread (hope you don't mind?).

I have an 84 (or so) EZGO which I got off of craigslist a couple of weeks ago. I tried getting it running (cleaned carbs, checked fuel pump, etc). Even getting fuel and spark, it wouldn't crank. So I did a compression test and it was only 70psi. Time to rebuild this thing.

I'm no mechanic. However, I am a DIY kind of guy so I don't mind getting my hands dirty. I've seen the rebuild video on youtube, and it seems rebuilding the little 2PG is pretty straight forward. So I'm thinking I might just try doing this myself rather than paying someone else.

These are my questions:

1) I'm on a budget, so I don't want to fix anything that isn't broken. I plan on buying the top end rebuid kit, and the crank case seals. Do you think this is ok, or should I spring for the complete rebuild kit which has a new crank and rod?

2) The top end rebuild looks super simple. But I'm not sure about the crankcase seals. Does anyone know where I might find an article or video showing how to replace them?

3) Will a standard pulley puller work for removing the clutch or do I need the special puller?

4) If theres no article or vid on replacing the crankcase seals, can someone please walk me through it? How exactly does the case come apart? Anything I need to look out for?

5) I know these engines don't have traditional valves. They have reed valves. But how about timing? Once I remove the crank, install the seals and button everything back up, how do I make sure the plug is firing when the piston is at the top of its stroke? I know this probably sounds goofy to those of you who know how this engine works, but keep in mind I'm new to this and don't have a clue what I'm doing.

6) Do you guys think I may be getting in over my head with this job? Like I said, I'm no mechanic and I've never rebuilt anything other than a carb. I don't want to get into something thats beyond my skill level.. But I think I can do it?

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

[Dave Box]

Originally Posted by Plumbergs

Hi Guys.. I'm sure most of these questions have been asked before, but I'm wanting a little reassurance before I tear into this thing so I'm making a new thread (hope you don't mind?).

I have an 84 (or so) EZGO which I got off of craigslist a couple of weeks ago. I tried getting it running (cleaned carbs, checked fuel pump, etc). Even getting fuel and spark, it wouldn't crank. So I did a compression test and it was only 70psi. Time to rebuild this thing.

I'm no mechanic. However, I am a DIY kind of guy so I don't mind getting my hands dirty. I've seen the rebuild video on youtube, and it seems rebuilding the little 2PG is pretty straight forward. So I'm thinking I might just try doing this myself rather than paying someone else.

These are my questions:

1) I'm on a budget, so I don't want to fix anything that isn't broken. I plan on buying the top end rebuid kit, and the crank case seals. Do you think this is ok, or should I spring for the complete rebuild kit which has a new crank and rod?

That is a hard question to answer as only you can work out the state of the crankshaft. If you do the whole thing you will have an engine that will last many years. If you just do the top then the increased compression may blow out the big end. Try this :- Grab the clutch and try to lift the engine. If the clutch moves and the engine doesn't you have worn bearings and / or a worn crankshaft

2) The top end rebuild looks super simple. But I'm not sure about the crankcase seals. Does anyone know where I might find an article or video showing how to replace them?

I have never seen one but once you have the clutch and the flywheel off it is relatively easy to winkle them out

3) Will a standard pulley puller work for removing the clutch or do I need the special puller?

No you need to remove the center bolt then drop in a steel rod 3 inches long by 5/8 diameter, now screw in a 3/4 hardened bolt 2 inches long. The bolt screws into the clutch and the rod jams against the crankshaft and after many tear of bitter rage and frustration the clutch comes off.

4) If theres no article or vid on replacing the crankcase seals, can someone please walk me through it? How exactly does the case come apart? Anything I need to look out for?

You do not need to split the crankcase to change the seals as the fit from the outside. Of course if you decide to replace the crankshaft or replace the bearings then you will need to split it

5) I know these engines don't have traditional valves. They have reed valves. But how about timing? Once I remove the crank, install the seals and button everything back up, how do I make sure the plug is firing when the piston is at the top of its stroke? I know this probably sounds goofy to those of you who know how this engine works, but keep in mind I'm new to this and don't have a clue what I'm doing.

There is just one reed valve under the elbow behind the carburetor. Don't get hung up on that it is just a bent piece of metal and pretty bullet proof. Behind the flywheel is a sensor called the pulser. You will see that it is on a ring and should be adjusted to the center position. That is the timing set. The little 2PG engine is remarkably tolerant as regards timing and runs at an unbelievable 20 degrees BTDSC. However you should be aware that it is very intolerant of air leaks so you will need to use mastic on the crankcase halves as well as the carburetor unions. I like Mega Gray as it matches the color of the engine

6) Do you guys think I may be getting in over my head with this job? Like I said, I'm no mechanic and I've never rebuilt anything other than a carb. I don't want to get into something thats beyond my skill level.. But I think I can do it?

Here is the thing. If you do get over your head there are at least 10 regulars on this forum who have taken the engine down to the last bolt. If you get stuck, you shout and you will have the answer in hours if not minutes. If you decide that this cart is a keeper then I suggest you buy the top and bottom kit. If conversely you only want it for some fun and intend to move it on later in the year then do the top (unless you can move that clutch as above. It is a great little engine to work on and you can pull it in a couple of hours (the second time in 45 minutes) and have the head and cylinder off in 30 minutes. I urge you to do it and I will give you this tip before you start. Get a whole load of ziplock bags and a sharpie. When you take the muffler off put the bolts in the bag and label them. When you take the carburetor off put it and the bolts in the bag and label them. When you .......... well you get the point.

Thanks for any help or suggestions!

You are welcome and good luck

Dave

[ScooterMcTavish]

Here is my thready from my rebuild - think I was in the same category you were.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...s-rebuild.html

Some good time saving tips here that hopefully would help you as lessons learned!

[Plumbergs]

Dave & Scooter,
Thank you very much for the great info.

I'm going to follow all of your tips & advice and do it myself. It'll be a little while before I get started, but once I do I'll post pics and progress here in this thread.

Thanks again!

[ScooterMcTavish]

Just noticed Dave's tip on the ziplocks and sharpie. I figured that one out myself!

Good luck Plummy, and as Dave correctly said, there's plenty of us here who've done it and can help.

[Plumbergs]

I pulled the motor over the weekend and took the cylinder apart.

With only 70psi of compression, I was expecting the rings to be completely worn out, but that wasn't the case. The rings, piston, and cylinder wall all appear to be in good shape (see pics). I did wiggle the piston to see how much play was there before removing the cylinder. It was minimal. Take a look at this video clip to see for yourself. I belive that small amount of movement is just the rings compressing against the wall.

Either way, since I have it apart I'm going to go ahead and replace the piston and cylinder along with the rings even though they look fine.

Oh yeah, that reminds me.. Is the rod supposed to be able to slide back and forth on the crank shaft once the cylinder has been removed? By back and forth, I mean toward the clutch and back to the fan. Its probably normal, but I just want to make sure.

On the clutch side of the shaft, I noticed a little rubber part and spring just sitting on the shaft.. I'm guessing this is a blown crankcase seal?



Seems like they blow out pretty easily. Makes me wonder whats to stop it from blowing out again after I replace them. Maybe I should put a little locktite on the new ones when I install 'em?

I also took Dave's advice and tried wiggling the crank shaft.. Very little, if any movement.

I haven't removed the clutch, flywheel or fan yet.. thats next (dreading it!).

My goal is to go ahead and get everything apart (old crank case seals, removed, etc), cleaned, and ready while I save up some $$$ to buy the rebuild parts. I noticed my carb is missing the pilot screw and spring, so I guess a carb repair kit will be added to my list of stuff to order.


Thoughts?

[ScooterMcTavish]

Hey Plummy,

That bit of metal doesn't look like a crank seal to me, as they are made of a metal casing on the outside with a rubber interior. However, maybe I just can't see it right in the photo.

And yes, blue loctite is a good idea for the crank seals.

Wiggle is a bit of an issue with these cylinders. The piston has .007" clearance to the sides of the cylinder, and when the rings go in, these babies are tight (and I mean, can't even think of wiggling tight). The helper at my mechanics thought I had ordered an oversize piston.

For the clutch, it's really not that bad - mine came off pretty easy. I used the bolt method in this forum here (as suggested by Dave above):

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/ezgo-...go-clutch.html

With the flywheel, go to the forum for my rebuild as BCM had a great tip about how to get it to pop off.

[Dave Box]

Nice video it sort of reminds me of a porno thing I once saw but whatever. Despite what it looks like that cylinder is well past its sell by date, in addition there should be no lateral movement on the big end to crankshaft bearing. You also say that there is little or no movement when you pull up on the clutch. That word little concerns me. The piece of metal in the picture is the center spring of your seal so we can safely say it is shot (as is probably the front one). As I like to say, it is your cart, your money and your call but if it was mine I would invest the $400 in the full rebuild. For the extra money you will be buying yourself a new engine and from what I can see your bottom end is going to let go fairly soon.

Good luck
Dave

PS Scooter is on the money I used Loctite blue (don't use red) to keep my seals in.

[Plumbergs]

- Scooter,
Thanks for the info and links! I bookmarked your thread, as well as the clutch removal thread and will probably tackle that job next weekend.

- Dave,
Thanks to you as well for the info. So the rod shouldn't be sliding back and forth on the shaft? Here's another vid showing the movement. If thats the case, I will definitely take your advice and spring for the whole rebuild kit. I don't want to waste my time rebuilding the topend if the bottom end is about to let go.

Thanks again to both of you guys!

[Plumbergs]

I'm having a little trouble removing the bolt that holds the clutch on the shaft.. To loosen it, its counter clockwise right?