Voltage Reducer Wiring Help

[T.Wells]

Hello,

I wanted to ask for help in wiring my voltage reducer (ebay image included) and fuse block to my cart. I have a 2006 DS 48v cart (12v x 4 batteries).

The instructions on the reducer read as follows:
Output: Green goes to 12v positive accessories (as stated), Black goes to 12v negitive and also goes to 48v negitive side ( Note the connector adding a black - wire to go to battery NOT INCLUDED ) of the battery pack. Not included because there are many different applications with different carts and lengths.
Input: Red goes to 48v postive side of the battery pack(as stated) and Yellow is the trigger(control) and also needs to be connected to a 48v postive source whether it be a key or toggle switch or to the battery. After wiring the unit this way, you will see 12vdc on your multi-meter.

I am a bit confused and don't know where to start asking questions so I'll just give it a shot.

1. Can I cut off the connections provided at the end and use something different? The connectors seem to be cheap and difficult to make. Are wire nuts a possibility? They certainly will be much easier to make a connection. If wire nuts are out, what do I use to join the wires?

2. How do I add this extra black wire that was not included (shown on the picture with a circle connector on the end). Again, do I cut the wire and use a wire nut to add in?

3. Next for the connections, is this correct?
- Reducer's positive input wire to battery #4 positive terminal.
- Reducer's input yellow "control wire" to "cold" side of ignition switch (how do I find this?).
- Reducer's output (green) positive to fuse block positive input.
- Reducer's output (black) negative to fuse block negative input.
- Where does the extra black wire go? To battery #1 negative terminal?

4. The fuse box I purchased is this Blue Sea ATO 6 circuit block

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

The wiring diagram shows an in-line fuse on the positive input. Is this necessary and what should I use here?

5. I purchased 14g solid wire to make these connections. Is this adequate?


Sorry for all the simple newbie questions but I really thought this would be more straight forward. I am confident I can get this done though with help from the great folks here at BGW.

Thanks,
T.Wells

[scottyb]

That looks like a low amperage inexpensive unit. What is it you are wanting to power with 12v?

First and most importantly, wire nuts are completely out of the question in DC wiring, they are used in AC (household) only.

It is a good idea to fuse at the 48v source and at the 12v source. So use two 20amp type inline fuse for one leg of the power going into the reducer from the cart and on one leg of the 12v power coming out of the reducer.
You will need to make crimp connections, the wire and connectors must be sized together and properly for the load in the line. 14g sounds kind of light = 10amps?
Back to my original question...

[Stevegrmich]

. . looks like same unit I have . . 20amps . .

yellow trigger wire to cold side of ign switch - switch has two connectors - in off position, test with vom - one side will have voltage, and one side won't - side without voltage is cold side . . .

reducer's positive input to #4 battery . . .

reducer's 12v output wire to fuse block's positive input terminal . .

if fuse block has common ground terminal (with connection points for accessorie's negative wires), connect a wire from battery #1's negative terminal and also the reducer's black wire there . . . in this method, the second black wire for the reducer isn't needed . . .

be aware when you first connect the reducer to battery, it will spark, which is normal . . .

[T.Wells]

Thanks for the replies.

Originally Posted by scottyb

That looks like a low amperage inexpensive unit. What is it you are wanting to power with 12v?

For right now, it will only be head and tail lights. I may add a radio in a year or two but nothing else.

Originally Posted by scottyb

First and most importantly, wire nuts are completely out of the question in DC wiring, they are used in AC (household) only.

Thank you very much.

Originally Posted by scottyb

You will need to make crimp connections, the wire and connectors must be sized together and properly for the load in the line. 14g sounds kind of light = 10amps?
Back to my original question...

I will have to look into the crimp connections. Any recommendations on what I need? I am very accustom to making compression and crimp connections in A/V equipment so I assume it will be just as easy. Based on the equipment listed above, do you have a recommendation for which gauge wire to use?

Originally Posted by Stevegrmich

. . looks like same unit I have . . 20amps . .

yellow trigger wire to cold side of ign switch - switch has two connectors - in off position, test with vom - one side will have voltage, and one side won't - side without voltage is cold side . . .

reducer's positive input to #4 battery . . .

reducer's 12v output wire to fuse block's positive input terminal . .

if fuse block has common ground terminal (with connection points for accessorie's negative wires), connect a wire from battery #1's negative terminal and also the reducer's black wire there . . . in this method, the second black wire for the reducer isn't needed . . .

be aware when you first connect the reducer to battery, it will spark, which is normal . . .

Thanks. Yes, the fuse block has a bank of screws for negative connections from accessories. I will use 1 screw for battery #1 negative and the black wire from the reducer. There is a "master" (sorry, don't know the right term to use here) negative input on the fuse block, does nothing go there?

Thanks again, I hope I can get this baby connected this weekend.

-T.Wells

[scottyb]

On the question of gauge, you can usually match what the manufacture supplies. If the manufacture goes in with a 10g and out with a 12g then you can do the same. In the case of a long run like from the battery bay to the front or when supplying a distribution block you can go one size heavier, like from 14 to 12.

Stick with Steve here, he has the same unit up and running.

[Stevegrmich]

Originally Posted by T.Wells

Thanks for the replies.


There is a "master" (sorry, don't know the right term to use here) negative input on the fuse block, does nothing go there?

The "master" is where the negative wire from battery #1 and black wire from reducer connect to . . .


-T.Wells

. . .

[T.Wells]

Hi Steve and Scotty,

Your help was and is very much appreciated. I hooked up everything today without any issues with the only connections left being those that go into the cart. My cart stays at my lake house so I only use it on the weekends but I wanted to ask one more question before I get up to the house this weekend so that I am prepared.

What type of connection (spade, ring, interconnect, etc.) will I need to connect into the yellow ignition switch?

Scotty, my plan was also to eventually buy one of your battery meters. Perhaps since I am wiring to the ignition switch, now is the time to buy and install that as well. Does that make sense? If so, how should I plan for that addition as well?

Thanks again for the help.

T.Wells

[Stevegrmich]

Maybe ScottyB can answer the switch connection . . I changed out my switch to a non-CC switch . . .

[scottyb]

CC uses a simple 2 terminal switch. It is an on/off switch, power in and power out.

The meter is a simple 2 wire connection with the battery pack. You can get 1 of the two connections from the switched side of the key switch and the other from the battery pack main. This way the meter comes on with the key.

[sandbag3]

Originally Posted by Stevegrmich

. . looks like same unit I have . . 20amps . .

yellow trigger wire to cold side of ign switch - switch has two connectors - in off position, test with vom - one side will have voltage, and one side won't - side without voltage is cold side . . .

reducer's positive input to #4 battery . . .

reducer's 12v output wire to fuse block's positive input terminal . .

if fuse block has common ground terminal (with connection points for accessorie's negative wires), connect a wire from battery #1's negative terminal and also the reducer's black wire there . . . in this method, the second black wire for the reducer isn't needed . . .

be aware when you first connect the reducer to battery, it will spark, which is normal . . .

Steve,
Sorry to butt in but I am also wiring the same 20 amp reducer to a 2006 CC. Instead of putting the reducer in the battery well(very little room) according to some of the install you tubes on the subject is there another option. It looks like there a ton of electrical connections in dash. Some are 12 and some are 24 volt. Is it possible to plug in to some of these and run the reducer to a fuse bank? I am trying to hook up a 12 volt stereo unit.
Thanks