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Old 02-15-2011, 06:56 PM   #1
gusyork
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Default differential oil change

1989 ez-go with robin engine. Do I drain oil by removing bottom pan, no drain plug. Replace with what grade oil and how much. There is a vent. Can you fill threw vent and can you measure oil level threw vent. Thanks
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:24 PM   #2
Texas001
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Default Re: differential oil change

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Originally Posted by gusyork View Post
1989 ez-go with robin engine. Do I drain oil by removing bottom pan, no drain plug. Replace with what grade oil and how much. There is a vent. Can you fill threw vent and can you measure oil level threw vent. Thanks
I don't know if there is a difference but here is a picture of my 2003 EZGO differential. There are two plugs on the bottom side of the differential. One on the bottom itself (driver side, plug 1, this plug also looks like a bolt holding the differential case together) and one just above and an inch or so forward of the bottom bolt(plug 2) . Take out both bolts. The oil will drain. Then install the bottom plug 1. Add oil thru the breather (yellow cap) until the oil comes out of the upper plug 2. That is your check level plug (number 2) Reinstall plug 2 and the breather cap and you are done. My manual says 30 weight oil. Some say 30 weight for electrics and 90 weight for gas. I use 30 weight as specified in my gas manual. It takes about a quart or so. If your differential looks different than mine then I am all wet and don't follow these instructions.
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:59 PM   #3
Gale Hawkins
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Default Re: differential oil change

Why change every 5 years? I read it in the manual but vehicles traveling at high speeds for 100,000's of thousand miles do fine with not change.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:07 PM   #4
madoc1
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Default Re: differential oil change

gale , what's harm. i quart and a little of time for a bit of peace of mind. some have posted picking up some speed.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: differential oil change

Yeah Texas001, the differential in your cart is different than the '89 Marathon. gusyork I have the same differential in my Marathon and I am planning on a fluid change. Your thoughts on removing the cover to drain, and then filling through the vent hole are the only options I can see on mine. I might get a chance to do it tomorrow and if so I will let you know how it went and how much oil I end up using. I bought some synthetic blend 75w90 that I am going to fill with. I thinks the 30 weight is used in the electric Marathons. If you beat me to the fluid change be sure to post what you find
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:47 PM   #6
Gale Hawkins
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Question Re: differential oil change

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Originally Posted by madoc1 View Post
gale , what's harm. i quart and a little of time for a bit of peace of mind. some have posted picking up some speed.
I can not see any harm personally.

Do you know why it is in the manual to do so?
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Old 02-19-2011, 11:37 AM   #7
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Default Re: differential oil change

I got the fluid changed in rear differential on my Marathon yesterday, judging by the look of the old oil I think it was time!
I started by removing the hose clamp on the vent line and pulling the hose off. My 7/8" deep socket fit over the brass fitting and bushing so I was able to remove them so I knew I would have a place to refill.
I jacked up the rear of the cart and put it on jack stands with the front tires blocked. I pulled the bolts out of the cover and then used a screwdriver to gently pry it loose and drained the fluid into a catch pan. I couldn't find anywhere that gave the fluid capacity for this rear end with the horizontal cover, and since my wasn't leaking I thought I would just measure out what I took out and refill with that amount. I ended up using about 8/10th of a quart of semi synthetic 75w90.
I used a wire brush on my cordless drill to remove all the old sealant from both mating surfaces. I also cleaned the threads of the bolts and the brass fitting. I sprayed everything down with brake parts cleaner and wiped clean. I made the gasket using black silicone sealant and put the cover back on, I also put a dab of silicone on each bolt head before reinstalling. I tightened up the bolts alternating from side to side and snugged everything down evenly.
I used a funnel to add the new fluid through the vent hole. I then wrapped some teflon tape around the brass fitting and put it back in and reconnected the hose.
Sorry so long winded, I know most of this is pretty basic stuff. I wasn't having any issues with my rear end before the change, just did this as preventative maintenance. It feels good knowing that there is good clean oil in there instead of that nasty crap I drained
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:51 PM   #8
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Default Re: differential oil change

WAAAY late here, but someone might still wonder. The reason to change oil is likely water, from condensate. The rear end in your car or truck gets hot enough to evaporate the water, not so a golf cart. When I opened mine to repair lack of oil it was milkey looking, sure sign of water.
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Old 09-23-2021, 09:27 PM   #9
Cookiebuddy
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Default Re: differential oil change

Yep, super late on this post but, someone else may have same problem. Mine's a 93 Marathon gas and the drain plug is absolutely frozen in place. To make matters worse, the shoulders on the plug have been knocked around so badly that none of my sockets - SAE or metric - will fit. I've sprayed a little Kroil on it in hopes it will free up but it looks like I'll have to use (shudder) Vice-grips to get it loose.

Any thoughts on how to free this monster up will be appreciated. Jeez I hate the thought of drilling this durn thing out 😟
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Old 09-24-2021, 07:25 AM   #10
Texas001
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Default Re: differential oil change

Since you will most obviously need to replace the plug itself you might consider using a small pipe wrench. I think the pipe wrench will grip better than vice grips. Hopefully you won't strip out the threads in the housing. If you do there are products to repair that problem too.
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