295 robin pulsar coil question

[ncfenceguy]

Not sure when it ran last but I think it has been a couple of years. When I picked up the cart the owner had said something about Diesel being accidently put in the cart by his wife and while in the process of getting that out, it quit sparking. So he replaced all of the ignition components chasing that. I had all new ignition parts on the shelf so that's why we have NIB parts to work with. The latest development is that one of my service trucks needed a new volt meter, so I picked a analog meter that reads AC in the scale of 300, 200, 50, and 10. With the setting on 10ac, and the pulsar coil disconnected, the needle doesn't move. (yes, I tested the new meter on a cordless phone transformer) I changed to the other new pulsar, gapped at .028 and got the same thing. I had cleaned the hub before but did it again because of light surface rust and still no change. Turned the motor by hand and felt of the hub and it's smooth. No rust or debris under the pulsar or on the hub. Still no, or low voltage. I have everything wired to the battery and can ground the - on the coil and it will spark. I'm coming to the conclusion that the pulsar has been the culprit all along but not sure why it has quit producing voltage. I would really like to pull the flywheel and have a close look at the pulsar hub but it might be difficult with the engine in the cart. The owner has given up on the cart, so now I'm not on the clock any more, but would really like to know just for curiosity..

[trig123]

I am not sure what you mean about grounding the - on the coil. ?? It is early and maybe I didn't read your post correct
The flywheel hub does not have the magnet on it. The Pulser does so no need to remove the hub as I would see it.

[trig123]

ncfenceguy, I noticed you were online yesterday . You have not posted back on what you found. It helps all of us to know if you got this cart going .

[wendy]

I have the identical issue with my 350 engine; 1991 ezgo commander 2200se. I still have impulse coil issues, I think this used one I got on e-bay is or has, died. I get anywhere from 0 to .7 volts, constantly and quickly roaming the display on my meter. I did as you, I have completely replaced all the wiring, I know my ignition coil is good and I suspect that as it has run recently, that the the ignition unit is good. What I did find was in the factory connector. I was using it by adding spade connectors on the ignition unit side so that I could return it if I found it to be bad. What I found, by accident, was that one of the pins in that connector was loose and when I connected it, it pushed out just enough to not make contact. I cut the wires from the pulsar coil and attached spade connectors to them and it fired right up and would run for maybe ten minutes and quit. It would start right back up and run for maybe five. After a month, it died. I assume the impulse coil would not function once it warmed up. I am looking on eBay, have found a few and have asked the sellers to check the resistance for me before I commit. I am trying to attach a digital manual for you; I have never done this so here goes---

[trig123]

wendy, that is the engine rebuild manual. Did you ever do the check I mentioned about the test light ?? Like I said this things are simple if you follow what I mentioned. Never once had one I could not make fire.

[wendy]

No, I haven't been in the barn recently to check as you described. I have a circuit diagram of the ignition electrical; I will try to attach that...if I can remember how...

[wendy]

It is a word document and will not allow me to attach; the manual I attached is not the one I thought it was. This link will take you to a technicians repair manual. It is for 1992 and up but is relevant to my commander. It will probably work. http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/605586.pdf

[wendy]

trig123- I did the test light check as you suggested- not a flicker.

[wendy]

OK, it seems as though these impulse coils have a resistance reading of~ 20 ohms. IF you are lucky, you will get a .5 volt reading. Why do the manuals all say the resistance should be between 433.5 and 5/86.5 ohms? I would guess that with that much resistance, it would generate far more than .5 volt.
I took a chance and bought from E bay a coil from a 70 hp Yamaha outboard. It has a resistance of about 200 ohms. Got .6 volts and the cart ran! HOWEVER, it would quit after maybe 10 minutes but would fire back up immediately. It would then quit after maybe 5 minutes, each repetition getting shorter. Finally it quit altogether. I have it out now and am going to test it with a hot air gun and see if heating up affects the resistance.
Lesson learned.
Using a hei unit would be preferable, but I have heard that they need a minimum of 1.5 volts to operate. How are all the folks getting them to perform?
An engineer suggested this circuitry to provide a ~11 volt signal to maybe drive a MOSFET to give a ground path for the ignition coil, eliminating the ignition unit altogether.The pulse coil would interrupt the transistor ground forcing the 12 volt current to find an alternate pathway, proving a high(er) voltage signal.

[trig123]

You lost me. Maybe someone else can help.