1991 g9

[fkozlovskyjr@twc.com]

I have a 1991 g9 cart. I am wondering if they make a carb kit for these or if you have to get all individual pieces.

[CP241]

Your best bet is to just clean the oem carb real well, that’s generally all they need. If you need to replace it don’t get one off Amazon or eBay, the aftermarket carbs are absolute garbage. Call Don plowman at www.plowmanscarts.com for any good parts you need. You’ll never talk to anyone with more hands on knowledge and experience with the Yamaha carts than him. He is also a dealer and can get anything you need.

[slonomo]

Don Plowman can also rebuild that carb for you if you so desire.

[fkozlovskyjr@twc.com]

I was planning on cleaning it just was wondering if they made a kit with all the gaskets and seals

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by fkozlovskyjr@twc.com

I was planning on cleaning it just was wondering if they made a kit with all the gaskets and seals

Again, Don Plowman will have what you need. You have to call him though.

https://www.plowmanscarts.com/

Yamaha doesn't sell "kits" you have to buy all the parts individually. You have to go to a website retailer that sells factory Yamaha parts and look up your cart, find the carburetor, select the parts you need.

[crash12888]

If you use care in disassembly, you shouldn't need any parts. Nothing is needed unless you tear up the bowl gasket, just go slow.
I keep a gallon of "Gunk" brand (but you can use any) carb cleaner on hand, comes with a little basket as well. Any auto parts store.
Remove your carb and pull completely apart, all little jets and screws.
Lightly screw in the mixture screw until it seats and count rotations as you do so, that way you know where to put it on reassembly.
Don't bother with any of the little expansion plugs.
Leave the bowl gasket and soak in the cleaner for about an hour.
remove and rinse with water then blow out with air.
The reason for water is the cleaner is very caustic and you don't want to atomize it when you blow out the carb, it will ruin a painted finish, water will not.
Anyway, blow out completely and reassemble, install and should be good to go.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by crash12888

If you use care in disassembly, you shouldn't need any parts. Nothing is needed unless you tear up the bowl gasket, just go slow.
I keep a gallon of "Gunk" brand (but you can use any) carb cleaner on hand, comes with a little basket as well. Any auto parts store.
Remove your carb and pull completely apart, all little jets and screws.
Lightly screw in the mixture screw until it seats and count rotations as you do so, that way you know where to put it on reassembly.
Don't bother with any of the little expansion plugs.
Leave the bowl gasket and soak in the cleaner for about an hour.
remove and rinse with water then blow out with air.
The reason for water is the cleaner is very caustic and you don't want to atomize it when you blow out the carb, it will ruin a painted finish, water will not.
Anyway, blow out completely and reassemble, install and should be good to go.

That’s good stuff. I use it in my ultrasonic cleaner. I’ve never met a carb I wasn’t able to save

[slonomo]

Well on old carbs the rubber o ring bowl gasket usually is hard and non pliable and sometimes won't seal and will leak. Also the needle valve rubber tip can get hard and it can flood the bowl. So for those reasons I usually spend the $15 on those parts. Most everything else can be cleaned and re-used. Float can be tested by dropping in a jar of fuel or water, if it sinks replace it, so sometimes a float needs replaced.

[Jammy]

Originally Posted by slonomo

Well on old carbs the rubber o ring bowl gasket usually is hard and non pliable and sometimes won't seal and will leak. Also the needle valve rubber tip can get hard and it can flood the bowl. So for those reasons I usually spend the $15 on those parts. Most everything else can be cleaned and re-used. Float can be tested by dropping in a jar of fuel or water, if it sinks replace it, so sometimes a float needs replaced.

I wish I had read this b4 I rebuilt mine the first time. 😁

I removed it and cleaned it well last month, b4 putting in Plowman's kit, and I still think it is running extremely rich. I need to figure this one out. Don was a bunch of help and got idle to about 700RPM but it stinks after a 2 minute ride.
Hope your doing Well SLO!!! All is well in Florida.

[crash12888]

Don't forget, when you clean a carb that has sediment in it, it comes from somewhere,
Always check your gas tank for water or trash and if it's that bad, check the fuel cans you use to fill your carts and mowers.
If you need to clean your tank, I fill the tank, and use a straight piece of pex (plastic tubing) on a rubber hose to syphon/vacuum the tank into a bucket.
Holding a flashlight up to the outside of most of the semi-clear or white tanks will let you see in it.