Not normal charging issues

[ericandrews331@msn.com]

I thought it would have a diode I am thinking about putting it on the blue control wire from the key start thus preventing the charge going back and blowing fuse.

As it is now I have the red wire from VR on the same terminal as the + battery cable which goes against every wiring diagram I have seen but its the only way I can get the VR to allow power from the S/G to reach the solenoid

[Jimmie]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Every gas Club Car have a 4 post continuous duty solenoid, (key, and pedal start)
my cart ( and most I've seen) have a diode across the 2 small terminals,
how it works that way? I don't know... and thats why I didn't answer any of your other threads!
It would be easier to figure out how to wire it with the proper solenoid!

Since an inductor (the relay coil) cannot change it's current instantly, the flyback diode provides a path for the current when the coil is switched off. Otherwise, a voltage spike will occur causing arcing on switch contacts or possibly destroying switching transistors.

C&Ped from an electronic web site

[lockman1]

Thanks Jimmie!
Sadly, it still confuses me as it did when I took electronic classes 35 years ago!

Eric? Get a 4 post solenoid!

[mrgolf]

Sergio on the electric cc forum could explain how to hook things up to work for you. If he can't then none of us can.

[ericandrews331@msn.com]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Thanks Jimmie!
Sadly, it still confuses me as it did when I took electronic classes 35 years ago!

Eric? Get a 4 post solenoid!

I am getting one, its ordered

[meimk]

A simple DS key start with existing parts:
1) In the black control box unplug the orange & green wires to the upper micro switch (accelerator starter limit switch), connect or splice those two wires together.
2) Unplug and leave disconnected the black & black/white wires to the lower micro switch (accelerator kill limit switch).
3) Adjust the carburetor idle set screw to the lowest running speed possible. The idea is to have the engine running, but at a low enough rpm to let the drive belt pass on the idle bearing in the clutch without the weights closing the clutch plates on the belt.
Doing this the engine will start & run when the key is turned to the "on" position and shut off in the "off" position. Solenoid will be powered to supply battery voltage to the starter for starting and generator voltage to the battery for charging when ever the cart is "on".

[ericandrews331@msn.com]

Originally Posted by meimk

A simple DS key start with existing parts:
1) In the black control box unplug the orange & green wires to the upper micro switch (accelerator starter limit switch), connect or splice those two wires together.
2) Unplug and leave disconnected the black & black/white wires to the lower micro switch (accelerator kill limit switch).
3) Adjust the carburetor idle set screw to the lowest running speed possible. The idea is to have the engine running, but at a low enough rpm to let the drive belt pass on the idle bearing in the clutch without the weights closing the clutch plates on the belt.
Doing this the engine will start & run when the key is turned to the "on" position and shut off in the "off" position. Solenoid will be powered to supply battery voltage to the starter for starting and generator voltage to the battery for charging when ever the cart is "on".

How does the battery get power through an open solenoid?

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by ericandrews331@msn.com

How does the battery get power through an open solenoid?

It can't Eric... the 2 small posts close the large post contacts that supply voltage to the starter,
BUT... the solenoid NEEDS to stay closed (energized) while running so the voltage supplied from the generator will return to the battery!
the difficult part is... you've taken ALL of the microswitches out of the equation!

[meimk]

Originally Posted by ericandrews331@msn.com

How does the battery get power through an open solenoid?

The way I've described it the solenoid is closed. If you bypass the accelerator starter limit switch by connecting those two wires (orange and green) that will supply the ground side of the solenoid control circuit. it still uses the neutral lock out limit switch (at the shifter). Then the blue wire from the ignition switch goes to the other small terminal on the solenoid to supply 12 volt + to the solenoid control circuit. Any time the ignition switch is turned "on" the solenoid circuit will be engaged. That's the way the starter generator is designed to work: it works as a starter to get the engine going, but once the engine speed exceeds the starters RPM's it begins generating power instead of depleting it.

[ericandrews331@msn.com]

Originally Posted by meimk

The way I've described it the solenoid is closed. If you bypass the accelerator starter limit switch by connecting those two wires (orange and green) that will supply the ground side of the solenoid control circuit. it still uses the neutral lock out limit switch (at the shifter). Then the blue wire from the ignition switch goes to the other small terminal on the solenoid to supply 12 volt + to the solenoid control circuit. Any time the ignition switch is turned "on" the solenoid circuit will be engaged. That's the way the starter generator is designed to work: it works as a starter to get the engine going, but once the engine speed exceeds the starters RPM's it begins generating power instead of depleting it.

Okay so I am understanding by just turning the key to on position instead of all the way to the start position the cart is going to turn over and start and once it reaches the certain rpm it begins to generate power back to the battery through the now "always" energized solenoid(as long as the switch is on) ? Geez I think I understand this
but it does require a 4 pole solenoid ?