1993 Club Car DS 36V clicks, no go saga

[rettenator]

My 93 Club Car ran fine since I've had it until a few days ago when it would start not going on every gas pedal press. The problem slowly got worse over the course of a couple of days until it won't move now.

So here's what I've done/tested so far to diagnose the problem:
1. Batteries charged, load tested good
2. Clean battery cables
3. Key switch good
4. F&R microswitches operational

5. V-Glide switch cleaned, ohm tested each step (anyone have a chart that shows what resistance each step should be?)

6. V-Glide microswitch functional

7. Solenoid tested OK with ohm resistance method I found here:
http://golfcardr.hubpages.com/hub/Ho...a-Bad-Solenoid
and functional method OK found here:
http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...u_janfeb09.asp
under [Secondary Circuit (power) 1)]
Solenoid comes up fine in both tests.

8. Reset OBC using http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tting-obc.html
My reverse buzzer went off the whole time, ~6 minutes
[OBC Label says: Golftech Industries - Curtis 1204 - 400 AMP]

9. Bypassed OBC using these instructions: (To bypass the OBC take a 14 ga wire from the yellow wire on the solenoid (small post) to the total battery bank negative. This bypasses the OBC and should allow the cart to run, if it runs the OBC is bad.)
Still would not run.

I'm starting to lean toward motor brushes, but I don't know enough about these carts yet to make that determination. Thinking about taking the motor cover off tomorrow to look at them.

Any other tests or recommendations?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You dont have an OBC. They're only on 48 volt cars. You also have an upgraded controller so it's possibly a lot of the other wiring is different as well. If you've confirmed V-Glide output that's a good start. I'd check the wiring to the motor real good and inspect the contacts on the F&R switch. Unhook battery pack and unhook motor wires. Check for continuity between A1 to A2 and S1 to S2. Make sure you have it in both places. You shouldn't have continuity from any of the 4 posts to the base of the motor or from any A to S post. If motor passes test you can rule it out as the problem. With that being said, you've confirmed the motor, solenoid, V-Glide, microswitches, and Keyswitch. Replace the controller, it's the only thing left.

[rettenator]

So I tested the motor per your instructions and it is all OK.

I wonder if there is a way to test the controller. I have taken it off and get various ohm readings on the different contacts.

Also wonder if I do replace the controller, would an Alltrax AXE4844 or Alltrax AXE4845 be OK considering it had a Curtis 1204 400 AMP controller? Or should I stick with a Curtis?

[scottyb]

Alltrax is a good choice, I have NPX4844 custom set for 100% output with 05k throttle input and HD solenoid package #101 on the website. It is programmed to work with 36 or 48 volts. Anything like that would work.

[rettenator]

Upon physical inspection of the controller, on the bottom plate (part that faces up when installed) there are 6 round holes that appear to be filled with epoxy. Hole #3 (Left-to-Right, Top-to bottom) looks like the epoxy is partly gone around the edge ~1/4", copper partly visible, not burnt but dirty like the hole has been there a while. Holes #4 and #5 have just needle sized pin holes.

[ETX]

My 93 36 V no go either after it was turned over on its side and the v glide was smashed and all the wires jerked loose from the FR switch. I sure would like to see some pictures of exactly were the wires should connect back to the F-R switch and where the wires on the V glide should be attached.

[rettenator]

ETX, I think there might be something to help you here with what goes where:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...2-v-glide.html

I also found the testing procedure for the v-glide switch there.