Is my motor shot ??

[Threewheelmotion]

I have a question for you guys .. I pulled the motor from my 92 ezgo electric. "2hp" three wheel. I automatically suspected all the electrical components are bad because that is how my luck goes. So I wanted to start with the motor. "All batteries were fried." I tried the a1 to s1 and a2 to s2 and then hook pos and neg to each. Motor didn't make a sound. What could this mean besides the motor is shot. I would like to just change the brushes and not do a complete motor and controller overhaul. Any thoughts ? Thanks ! Please Let me know if you need more info ....

[cgtech]

That is the test for a "sepex" motor, you have a "series" motor. Test is different. Also, test must be done with motor on axle if the drive end does not also have a bearing to support it. You need to link one "S" terminal to one "A" terminal (its not picky which A & S terminal you use), then apply at least 12v to the terminals that have nothing hooked to them.

[Threewheelmotion]

I did this as well. Is this right for my motor ? http:/ /youtu be/nXM3oIJ EnWk .. The forum won't let me post a link since I have not been a member long enough. But if you take the spaces out it should take you to the link. I am very green to this golf cart thing .. Please excuse my ignorance.

[crash test dummy]

92 ezgo is "series" motor

motor test

WARNING you don't want to make a big spark anywhere near the battery.

jumper cables may be used
black clip on battery negative,
red clip on motor A1 post, tap the other ends together

[Threewheelmotion]

Wonderful ... I'll follow the directions. Keep your fingers crossed for me !!

[Threewheelmotion]

One other thing ... The little round yellow resister that was tied in above the controller had broken off. Does this piece need to be there in order for the whole system to function ? Since all of the batteries were bad in the cart, I Hooked up two deep cycle marine batteries in order to put out 24 volts to the system. I didn't get a sound when I pushed the go petal .. Neither in forward or reverse. Would 24 volts be enough for the system temp. Run ? My main objective is to try out all electrical components to make sure of how much I am going to be spending before I order the 500 dollars worth of batteries for a cart that does not run ...

[crash test dummy]

resister needs to be there to work , 24v not enough to trigger 36v solenoid

[Threewheelmotion]

Ahh.... Makes sense. I'll solder it in place and grab another battery and see what happens.

[crash test dummy]

if motor is still out just do the motor test
here is solenoid test


solenoid test

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. remove all wires, restorer , and diode from solenoid
test 1
Connect an volt meter, set on continuity, place on the two large terminal studs. The meter should indicate no continuity, Replace the solenoid if continuity is present.
test 2
Using jumper wires attach from main positive and main negative of battery pack to the two small solenoid studs, polarity is not important. You should hear a click as the solenoid engages, and the meter should indicate continuity on the two large terminals. Replace the solenoid if continuity is not present.
if solenoid clicks rapidly solenoid is bad

[Threewheelmotion]

Got cha !