Easy Increase of POWER and SPEED

[OregonMike]

Originally Posted by stevebutler

OK, so I removed the governor cables from my G14 and re routed the throttle cable direct to the carb. NO change...???
I have the governor bypassed but have no difference in RPM or speed.

What am I missing?

Um...I think your missing More RPM and Speed!!

No real answer, sorry. Was just reading this thread, and wanted to post up that I have "speed spring" installed, and governer screwed all the way down on my G8, 22" tires, and I can eek out about 24-26 mph depending on varianbles, and I can turn between 3900-4100 RPM. I have a big dial tach, that I really like!

Also, I have just the Jakes 6" lift, not the fancy double a-arms long travel, and I just gotta say, at like 20+, with the stock suspension parts for the rest of it, it can be a bit scary... LOL! I am sure if you have the long travel and/or better shocks, wheel spacers, things get better. But I don't, and i think it would not take much effort to flop the ol girl over... just sayin!

[Dadsbaby]

Good reading..keep it coming!
Think I need to take my carb off and clean it also, may even polish it up a little!

[sho305]

My G9 (does not have a rev limiter in the ignition) would always run 28 on gps on a gravel drive, it will hit 30 on pavement. You have to do a few things, like adjust the throttle so the carb opens all the way, then adjust the pedal so it will start and idle then open the carb shortly after that so you get the most travel on the governor....if you still have it hooked up. With a governor all the way in and 22s they run around 27-28 gps I've run a few. Then you need to make sure the belt is going to the top of the primary at top speed to make sure it is shifting all the way out to high gearing. You can take the body off and have a passenger watch it, or mark the inside with a marker and see where the belt wears it off after a run. You need a fairly new belt once they get worn you don't get good performance. Yamaha says 1" wide replace, but a lifted cart needs replaced before that. Also make sure the tension cable if you have, is not too tight that will reduce top speed. If you put the wrong spring in the secondary that is too hard it will reduce top speed. The only mod to my stock engine was working on the clutches and I took off the silencer on the airbox, but the box itself was still all there. I did have to richen the main jet a little to make it run right again, I just filed it larger with a torch tip cleaner until it ran good. I never use the choke in summer lol, plug is brown. Maybe a little rich but not always a bad thing with air cooled engines run hard. Also run higher pressure in my rear tires so they stand up more but not hard, so I get a larger diameter they measure 23 tall and less rolling resistance (and sure thats why its faster on pavement). The fronts less pressure but they have less weight on them too I run about 8/15lbs F/R or a lb less. Of course different tires will have different heights. I also haul stuff in my dump box and need the pressure for that. Ran synthetic in that for a decade then it started to lose a little power when it got hot, and got worse every year so I stopped running trails. Finally started to burn oil, finally got things in order and put a clone in it this summer. Now it has twice the power, twice the fun, but not a lot of difference in speed. Without mods the stock or lawn engines still only run 5K rpm or so, you are limited by gearing and tire diameter. But now it gets to top speed in a few seconds and hills are much more fun.

If you want speed without a lift, either buy HS gears or forget about it. You will just over rev the engine. I ran with no governor since I bought the cart in 99, but with 22s it has a load on it at high speed. I never once kept it floored down a big hill and let it rev higher. Some weekends we ran trails up to 6 hours a day.