'80 EZ-GO 2stroke must choke to run

[ace_ripper]

Hi All~

I'm working on an 1980 EZ-GO w/ Robin EH?5 - 244cc 2PG. The sticker is torn right where the "?" is. I just put on a new head kit as there were some nasty leaks from both top and bottom of the head. I have about 110psi compression so it seems nice and tight. I am waiting for the new muffler to show up from Florida still.

The question I have is that I need to use the choke to get / keep it running. I suspect that it's running to lean and needs to choke to even out the air/fuel mix. Does anyone know what the stock carb settings are supposed to be? Both the 'idle' screw and the low speed needle? I'm pretty sure someone at some point has messed with one or both. In the mean time I'll tare the carb and pump apart to ensure cleanliness.

Thanks in advance!

[StoveBolt]

A big thing with the 2 strokes is crank seals leaking and sucking air, shoot some carb cleaner around them when running and see if the motor changes pitch.

[ace_ripper]

Originally Posted by StoveBolt

A big thing with the 2 strokes is crank seals leaking and sucking air, shoot some carb cleaner around them when running and see if the motor changes pitch.

Yep ~ just tried that. No change.

I did find that the low speed needle was out 4 1/2 turns. I've seen threads touching on this adjustment. I took it in my finger and turned out 1/2 turn at a time. At the 1 turn mark it seems better. I'll have to try tuning it in better once the muffler comes in.

In the mean time if anyone out there has the actual factory specs I would be very grateful.

Thanks StoveBolt!

[pachanga90]

The Pilot-Valve(screw on side of carb) setting is 1-turn out(fine-tune from there).Remove the bowl-plug from the bottom of the float-bowl,there is a jet in it.remove the jet and be sure the vertical and horizontal passages are clear(torch-tip cleaners work great!).This will cause a lot of issues.While you are at it remove and clean the bowl(this can be done in the cart,remove the access panel behind the seat).Also replace the spark-plug,once its loaded up its'pretty-well done.This should cure your problems.Hope this helps.

[ace_ripper]

Originally Posted by pachanga90

The Pilot-Valve(screw on side of carb) setting is 1-turn out(fine-tune from there).Remove the bowl-plug from the bottom of the float-bowl,there is a jet in it.remove the jet and be sure the vertical and horizontal passages are clear(torch-tip cleaners work great!).This will cause a lot of issues.While you are at it remove and clean the bowl(this can be done in the cart,remove the access panel behind the seat).Also replace the spark-plug,once its loaded up its'pretty-well done.This should cure your problems.Hope this helps.

Pachango ~ Thanks for the setting. It does much better at 1 turn out. I did tare the carb down completely and cleaned everything well.

StoveBolt ~ AhhA! The fan side seal does appear to be leaking a little. I have new seals on the way and will do both while the engine is out of the cart.

Will update the thread once I have new seals and a muffler and get a chance to tune it in.

Just for fun here's a pic of what I found under the engine.



Have I mentioned this week how much I luv this site!?!

Thanks again ALL!!!

[ace_ripper]

Alright!

New head, piston, rings, seals, muffler and all 3 motor mounts are done. Everything is so tight and nice I think they will need a new battery to start it up. The old batt has a hard time getting it to turn over. Once it does start to move the piston it fires right up. No choke needed.

Still have some minor tuning / tweaking to dial in the carb to find the sweet spot.

I've included some before and after pics for ya. I know you guys like photo's. I didn't get an after pic of the F'ed up wiring on the condenser, but yes I did fix that while I was in there.

Thanks again for the assistance ALL!

[ace_ripper]

The rest of 'em.

[chevyboy03]

getting ready to do the same on my cart with the seals, only had the cart running for less than 3 hours before the new seals went out, do you know if there are options for more heavy duty ones? i am not going to enjoy doing this often/
also did you relocate your gas tank to the rear, and for what reason?

[Dave Box]

Originally Posted by chevyboy03

getting ready to do the same on my cart with the seals, only had the cart running for less than 3 hours before the new seals went out, do you know if there are options for more heavy duty ones? i am not going to enjoy doing this often/
also did you relocate your gas tank to the rear, and for what reason?

I don't know if there are heavy duty ones available but I do know that if you put the seals on backwards they will fail very quickly. Ensure that the metal lip is on the outside or the retaining spring will pop right off. Smear some 2 stroke oil onto the inner surface of the rubber to provide an initial lubrication. Some guys recommend using Loctite bearing seal in the crankcase seating to hold the seal in place.

Dave Box

[shadowman]

don,t knowe if anyone else has ever paid attention to this but there is enough room to get 2 seals on the shaft, thats what i do i pop 2 seals on each end have never had a problem and havn,t had one pop out as of yet............................