06 TXT converted 48v, melting f/r switches

[mhall]

Hello,
I bought it with this:
2006 EZGO TXT 36v
EZGO lift kit
22" stryker tires on stock black 10" rims
hd rear leaf springs

Bought from Scotty @ Carts unlimited
500amp Alltrax (DCX500) 36 - 48v programmable
HD solenoid
HD f/r switch
2 gauge cables
D&D custom motor - ES 52-56
470 resistor - 48v 3/8ths lugs

Bought these locally:
Trojan Ranger HD 8V

After doing conversion worked for a month or so of light usage at hunting lease. Stopped working, was f/r switch. Replaced. Ran for 2 days, then stopped. F/R switch melted some wires laying on top of 2guage wires.

After replacing the 2nd blown f/r switch I get cart home and it stops running again. F/R switch warm but not melty. Battery pack is reading 50.3

Controller is blinking green, green, red, red, red.

Any suggestions on where to go from here?

[JohnnieB]

Hopefully you have an AXE500 rather than a DCX500. The DCX is a Sepex controller and is not compatible with a series drive cart.

You said it ran, so it must be a AXE.

The error code is for HPD. Meaning the throttle is not returning to zero. (Stuck pedal, bad pedal switch or bad ITS circuit.)

Going to a HD reversing contactor might solve the burning out F/R switches problem.

[scottyb]

On paper it looks like everything should be okay. For some reason the motor is drawing excessive amperage.
What is the tire size? 22"
What is the load carried?
What is the speed driven?
What is the terrain and footing like where the F&R heats up?

I can suggest 48v operation will increase performance & reduce amperage flow.

[mhall]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Hopefully you have an AXE500 rather than a DCX500. The DCX is a Sepex controller and is not compatible with a series drive cart.

You said it ran, so it must be a AXE.

The error code is for HPD. Meaning the throttle is not returning to zero. (Stuck pedal, bad pedal switch or bad ITS circuit.)

Going to a HD reversing contactor might solve the burning out F/R switches problem.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, i have that done wrong. It's a Alltrax SPM-48500EZ Motor Controller.

I see the HD reversing contractor on http://www.cartsunlimited.net/reversing-contactors.html Is that the one you are talking about? Scotty thought that my issue might be a bad battery or a worn motor, so i'm worried about buying a 4th F/R switch without testing other stuff. If i'm getting hot with the HD switch could a HD contractor just fix the issue?

Thanks for your help,
mark

[mhall]

Originally Posted by scottyb

On paper it looks like everything should be okay. For some reason the motor is drawing excessive amperage.
What is the tire size? 22"
What is the load carried?
What is the speed driven?
What is the terrain and footing like where the F&R heats up?

I can suggest 48v operation will increase performance & reduce amperage flow.

So just got the new switch from you last weekend.

What is the tire size? 22"
What is the load carried? One adult 190lbs, 2 children 45 lbs each. So 285 lbs.
What is the speed driven? 3/4 throttle to max throttle 2 laps around 1 block about 2k feet per lap
What is the terrain and footing like where the F&R heats up? This was city streets

[scottyb]

I see no reason why you would be heating up cables after 1 mile of street driving and melting HD F&Rs. The Reversing contactor may ultimately be an option but, installing it is not going to fix the problem and it may also fail.
The brakes are dragging bad or the motor is the cause of the F&R problem.
If you can push the cart easily by hand, call & be sure you have the correct application for the motor or send the motor back for repair.

[mhall]

This is my first cart, I don't have a frame of reference for easy, but i was able to move it around in the driveway after it died solo. Then 2 men were able to push it up in the trailer without issue.

You said, "be sure you have the correct application for the motor". Does that mean if i'm using the motor the correct way? Normally using this at the deer lease, and its rocky there with some hills.

Is there some way to test to see if the motor is bad? I bought it from you 11/2014.
Doesn't get much use, cart has been broken more often than not.

MH

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mhall

Thanks for the reply. Yes, i have that done wrong. It's a Alltrax SPM-48500EZ Motor Controller.

I see the HD reversing contractor on http://www.cartsunlimited.net/reversing-contactors.html Is that the one you are talking about? Scotty thought that my issue might be a bad battery or a worn motor, so i'm worried about buying a 4th F/R switch without testing other stuff. If i'm getting hot with the HD switch could a HD contractor just fix the issue?

Thanks for your help,
mark

The SPM is a much better controller than the AXE, I guessed AXE because it was from same era as the DCX.

Like Scotty says, something is causing too many amps to be drawn, so that problem needs to be identified and fixed.

Or it could be mechanical alignment of the F/R switch. If the cam isn't being rotated completely to the mechanical stop, only a portion of the contacts are touching and the higher current density of the smaller footprint will have the same effect as drawing too many amps.

If you have the burnt out F/R switches, look at the contacts. Is the burn only on part of the contacts, or do they cover most of the contact surface?

[mhall]

One of my buddies helping me kept the first switch we burned though. Its at his house. But we have burned through 3. (well, the one i lost yesterday i'm assuming it's burned, but you gave me that other code message) Are you talking about alignment in the cart or the device itself? How do I test if the F/R is toast? And the motor, can you test if thats bad? Is there a walkthrough some where for that?

MH

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mhall

One of my buddies helping me kept the first switch we burned though. Its at his house. But we have burned through 3. (well, the one i lost yesterday i'm assuming it's burned, but you gave me that other code message) Are you talking about alignment in the cart or the device itself? How do I test if the F/R is toast? And the motor, can you test if thats bad? Is there a walkthrough some where for that?

MH

Attached is a list of SPM error codes. The code you are getting is: High Throttle Over Range.
Needs to be corrected, but probably not what's burning up the switches.

As for switch alignment. The mounting holes are oblong, so there is some left to right adjustment of the entire switch assembly.

It has to be adjusted so the cam goes to the mechanical stop in both F and R. (There's some play in the two lever arms and connecting rod, so being off in either F or R might not be felt on the shift lever)

Also, the nut on the shaft has to be adjusted correctly. Too tight and it is hard to shift and too loose the contacts don't make a good connection.

If possible, record a data log. It will tell us how many amps are being drawn, Voltages and some other stuff.