Main cable to Starter Solenoid melting. Why?

[radioman]

How about purchasing or borrowing a hand held IR Thermometer. You can use one to locate more precisely where a bad connection causing heat is without having to make any voltage measurements. It will show you whether or not anything you have done has changed anything by recording temp before and after work.

[Sergio]

I would just replaced the Solenoid, the likely answer is that the Solenoid contacts were damaged by the connection heat that melted the cable insulation.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by radioman

How about purchasing or borrowing a hand held IR Thermometer. You can use one to locate more precisely where a bad connection causing heat is without having to make any voltage measurements. It will show you whether or not anything you have done has changed anything by recording temp before and after work.

I agree and they are not expensive. Can be used in many places on a cart.

As Sergio says, I would replace the solenoid.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I would just replaced the Solenoid, the likely answer is that the Solenoid contacts were damaged by the connection heat that melted the cable insulation.

I too would have replaced the solenoid long ago before replacing all the cables on the batteries especially after replacing the main wire to the solenoid didn't completely solve the problem. Sometimes I suppose we confuse people making trouble shooting a poor connection too complicated.

[Victor B]

Originally Posted by radioman

I too would have replaced the solenoid long ago before replacing all the cables on the batteries especially after replacing the main wire to the solenoid didn't completely solve the problem. Sometimes I suppose we confuse people making trouble shooting a poor connection too complicated.

One of the very first thing I did was replace the solenoid. If you go back to post #8 you will see when I ordered it and post #18 where I installed it.

[ThreeCW]

Did you receive the DC Clamp On Ammeter that you referred to in Post #39?

It would be interesting to measure the amperage draw from your batteries under various operating conditions and compare it to the rating of your solenoid. If the battery amperage is higher than the solenoid rating, that could perhaps explain some of the extra heat being generated. Is the solenoid itself getting hot or just the 2 AWG cable and connections?

Your White Rodgers - 586-317111 Solenoid is rated for 200 amp continuous and 600 amp inrush (Inrush Current: Current applied within the first 1/2 second of contact closure).

I would think that your cart would be pulling less than 200 amps ... but it might be worth confirming if you have a DC Clamp On Meter.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by Victor B

One of the very first thing I did was replace the solenoid. If you go back to post #8 you will see when I ordered it and post #18 where I installed it.

Ok I missed that.

[WalterM6]

Our rule of thumb at work was that if you could the hot object for 5 secs it wasn't too hot.
Remember all electrical circuits produce heat.

[Jaymo]

When a conductor or connection gets hot like yours did, it indicates a poor connection.
In this case, it indicates a poor crimp connection.
The heat will be concentrated in the area of highest resistance.
If you cable had, for instance, broken strands in the middle of the cable, the heat damage would have been in the middle of the cable.
If it was due to a loose connection where the lug bolts onto the solenoid stud, the lug (terminal) would have been heat discolored at that point.

In your case, the heat damage is concentrated at the crimp.
Ergo, poor or failed crimp.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by radioman

Ok I missed that.

I did too, not sure why I did...

Looks like the crimp has failed as Jaymo stated.