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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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01-12-2021, 06:28 PM | #11 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 16
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Re: Ezgo disaster
It is a par car motor I did have it tested. Like I said it works with no torque. as soon as I hook a negative lead from the battery pack to a2 it runs good. Attached is a diagram of the schematic I an using
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01-12-2021, 07:05 PM | #12 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Ezgo disaster
Okay, here's that schematic in digital form.
If it runs when you connect B- to A2 then M- (labeled M1 on schematic) isn't connected to C on F/R switch or F/R switch's moveable contacts are not make contact with the stationary contacts. When you connect B- to A2 you completely bypass the controller. |
01-13-2021, 01:13 PM | #13 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 16
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Re: Ezgo disaster
So you are thinking the forward reverse switch is bad also? I know it is new but I guess I should recheck it. Any good way to check it inside the cart?
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01-13-2021, 03:06 PM | #14 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Ezgo disaster
The speed control "Valve" is located between the controller's B- and M- (labeled M1 on schematic) terminals.
B+ is connected to A1 on the motor and A2 is connected to B- via the stator windings and through two separate sets of F/R switch contacts. Either the cable between M1 on the controller and terminal C on the F/R switch is bad, or one or both of the F/R switch contact sets is bad. |
01-13-2021, 05:01 PM | #15 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 16
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Re: Ezgo disaster
I have a2 hooked to a2 on the controller and my A terminal to f/r switch. I think I am missing ground somewhere. I pulled the f/r switch and cleaned all contacts and even put a known good one in and the same thing is happening. I ohmed out the wire from m- terminal and it's good. Any other ideas?
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01-13-2021, 05:25 PM | #16 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 16
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Re: Ezgo disaster
I have a2 hooked to a2 on the controller and my A terminal to f/r switch. I think I am missing ground somewhere. I pulled the f/r switch and cleaned all contacts and even put a known good one in and the same thing is happening. I ohmed out the wire from m- terminal and it's good. Any other ideas?
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01-13-2021, 06:05 PM | #17 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Ezgo disaster
Connect your DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
When the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, you should read full battery pack voltage (38.2V if fully charged). If you don't get that, use the test lead on the M- terminal to go searching for it. The voltage path from M- back to B+ is highlighted on the schematic I posted above. M- to C to B to S1 to S2 to D to A to A2 to A1 to B+. |
01-14-2021, 01:27 PM | #18 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 16
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Re: Ezgo disaster
What do I do if i have full voltage from B- and M- when the pedal is pushed just far enough to click? I do not know for sure, but I think I did test that according to the curtis manual.
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01-14-2021, 01:52 PM | #19 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Ezgo disaster
Quote:
If it doesn't decrease, then the controller or the throttle input to controller is likely to be bad. |
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01-14-2021, 04:15 PM | #20 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 16
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Re: Ezgo disaster
Ok. So I tested again. I get battery voltage when pedal is depressed and just clicks and decreases to close to 0 at full throttle. I retested the pot box and it is in range from 4.3 ohms to 4.72 k ohms. I am guessing the controller is bad. Tested it from the curtis manual and it tested good. Still confused. Any other ideas? I have bypassed the micro switches except the one on the pot box that shouldn't have anything to do with it?
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