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Old 02-14-2021, 01:38 PM   #1
GradyTX
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Default Wiring all power to the switch

Hey guys, so... since I am re-wiring the entire cart, I literally have to figure out what wires go where, through the frame...etc.

So, I have looked over the wiring diagrams, thanks for all those by the way... they did help a lot...heh, but I am curious.

To keep the accidental "kid flipped a switch and drained the batteries" from occurring, are these key switches heavy duty enough to, or even designed to, allow not only powering on the cart but also to allow that the electrical panel will not function without the key being turned on?

I know, probably a very basic thing for all of you, heh, but (see the photos below)... I cut almost every wire out of the cart, bought a LED street kit, and the only wires I have are the charger wires and the pedal, which I assume connects to the controller and thus should be an easy fit heh.

I added 8 dash buttons and plan to add a DC converter and a separate 12v deep cycle battery for all that, but would like to make sure none of them work unless the key switch is on.

Just trying to "picture" all the wire runs in my head, since I have nothing else to do atm as too cold outside to drag the cart outside to paint and can't really do it inside my enclosed shop :P

I plan to build a temp enclosure on top of my 20ft trailer, with 2x4's and plastic painting tarps.....after the temp gets high enough heh

R
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Old 02-14-2021, 01:59 PM   #2
kgsc
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

Not perfect but might help. https://www.countrycat.com/arctic-cat-parts# then Ezgo, fleet, electric txt 1997
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:05 PM   #3
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

Thanks. Been browsing that as well as a search for "re-wiring" in the forums all day.

Essentially, the diagrams for the txt have the key switch going to the batteries only. Now, maybe that was okay in 1996 when they did not have any "bling".. lol.. but, if I plan to have a 30amp reducer and an electrical panel.. going to have to get creative.. lol.

I see a lot of solenoids and resistors etc.... and not sure where the heck the backup buzzer went, but not seeing that on here either.. heh

I am soooo not an electrical wiring diagram kinda guy, but trying :P

Will check that out.

Also, I have a 1996 EZGO Elec txt. Forgot to add that, sorry.

Thanks KG
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:13 PM   #4
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

96, 97 won’t matter.. buzzer mounted to the fnr switch on the series carts.
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:19 PM   #5
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

Beautiful. Just found Scotty's instruction thread also. Now, this is making more sense. Cutting the molex switch. I was like, "wait a second.. these do not all line up".. heh.. now they are starting to look better.

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=117069

Still a few "custom" modes to ensure no battery drain or shortage, but slowly making more sense.

Thanks again K

Russ
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:56 PM   #6
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

Just remember that you were the one that wanted to go series
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Old 02-14-2021, 03:06 PM   #7
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

The cart was already a Series. I had the names backwards is all. Nothing to do with switching it all, had to do with the wires were all junk so had to cut them all out and thought I had a sepex.

So, the only issue I have now is making sure I run the right wires to the right place.

Once I saw his instruction thread from 2016, it all made more sense.

R
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Old 02-14-2021, 03:12 PM   #8
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

There is plenty of help here..
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Old 02-14-2021, 03:26 PM   #9
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by GradyTX View Post
Hey guys, so... since I am re-wiring the entire cart, I literally have to figure out what wires go where, through the frame...etc.

So, I have looked over the wiring diagrams, thanks for all those by the way... they did help a lot...heh, but I am curious.

1. To keep the accidental "kid flipped a switch and drained the batteries" from occurring, are these key switches heavy duty enough to, or even designed to, allow not only powering on the cart but also to allow that the electrical panel will not function without the key being turned on?

I know, probably a very basic thing for all of you, heh, but (see the photos below)... I cut almost every wire out of the cart, bought a LED street kit, and the only wires I have are the charger wires and the pedal, which I assume connects to the controller and thus should be an easy fit heh.

2. I added 8 dash buttons and plan to add a DC converter and a separate 12v deep cycle battery for all that, but would like to make sure none of them work unless the key switch is on.

Just trying to "picture" all the wire runs in my head, since I have nothing else to do atm as too cold outside to drag the cart outside to paint and can't really do it inside my enclosed shop :P

I plan to build a temp enclosure on top of my 20ft trailer, with 2x4's and plastic painting tarps.....after the temp gets high enough heh

R
1. EZGO carts with factory installed lights had a 3 position keyswitch. Off/On/On with Lights. The switch had 2 sets of contact, one for battery pack voltage (36V or 48V) and the other for 12V. Not sure what the amp rating for the 36V contacts were, but the lights on some of the cart were 55W halogens, so the 12V contacts were rated for at least 110W or about 10A minimum.

If your 12V accessories draw more than about 10A, (Audio systems tend to be amp hogs) it would be best to install a relay between the 12V battery and the 12V fuse block that feeds the switches. And if you do that, the 3 position switch isn't needed if you use a relay with a 36V (or 48V) coil.

2. You can get DC to DC converters with a remote turn on that connects to the keyswitch, so it isn't on until the key is on.

You mentioned adding a DC converter and a separate 12V battery to power the 12V accessories. If you are thinking about charging the 12V battery with the DC converter, forget it. The voltage needed to charge a 12V battery is higher that what the DC converter puts out.

If you have a audio system with high power sub-woofers, adding a 1 or 2 Farad 16V super-capacitor to the output of the DC converter will take care of the peak amps demands of heavy bass beats.

This is an example of a 2 Farad super-capacitor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ITZAQ2...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Old 02-14-2021, 04:07 PM   #10
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Default Re: Wiring all power to the switch

Hey Johnny, actually already planned to install a single 12v charger for the 12v battery, but thanks for the good info.

I also plan to add one of Scotty’s kits...I think the Veego reducer kit. May order that tomorrow or Tuesday...waiting till after the cold passes so someone does not try to make it to a postal place heh...one last person on the road.

I ordered a “standard” switch from someone...I forget as I have ordered a lot heh...and not sure it has 3 selections, but have been wrong before. I also am not going “all out” on a stereo, just a 70 dollar Boss marine stereo and cheap 25 buck pair of speakers. I prefer a little music with a lot of quality in the motor etc instead:P

Anyway, working out the details. I am sure it will all fit as soon as I am able to start assembling it all after this cold snap.

Actually, now that I think about it...If all my accessories run of the one 12v battery, then all I need is the panel. Only need the reduver if I run it off the 48v batteries.

Russ
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