12-Volt Converter wired to Ignition Switch

[Spartan Mark]

I've looked at a number of posts giving pros and cons on wiring the 12-V converter through the cart on/off switch. Has anyone tried moving the wires around on a 4-stud key switch? One thread describes the four studs as B, I, B1 and L...B is 36-v in, I is out to controller, B1 and L are used for lights or 36-v accessories. (I think it was JohnnieB).

If I move the B and I wires to B1 and L, and run another 36-v wire to the B stud and the "trigger" wire to the converter from the I stud, wouldn't that give me basically on OFF-ACC-RUN switch rather than the traditional wiring of OFF-RUN-LIGHT switch? Doesn't that solve the problem of keeping the cart in RUN mode to run the radio and other accessories?

[bronsonj]

I know this isn't answering the question you asked, but... On some (maybe most?) series EZGO when the cart is in neutral, between the F and R, there is no voltage to the key switch. Not something I knew about when my buddy wired his reducer through the key switch. Every time he switches from F to R, the stereo blanks out and is reset. It's a little frustrating but not too bad. Bad enough though that he would have wired it differently if he new in advance.

You can also get keys that are intentionally designed for off, acc, run for your golf cart. These have the added benefit of having a key that is not the same as every single other EZGO so it's a theft deterrent too.

[Spartan Mark]

Thanks...Some information is better than none! I'm about 1500 miles from the cart until spring, and I've only owned it since September so I'm trying to pre-plan next Spring's modifications. I do know it's a DCS, and plan on using ScottyB's conversion to the F-N-R Club Car switch so this is good info to have. I'd thought of wiring the converter (CartsUnlimited offering) direct to the battery pack and then using the three position ignition switch as Off-Acc-Run to power the radio, etc. So your cut-out-in-neutral problem will be something I'll need to watch out for. Also have toyed with the idea of using two fuse blocks, one switched through the ignition and the other unswitched coming directly off the hard-wired converter. I've also found GTW light kits now have all lighting (even on/off) in the turn signal stalk, so a separate light switch is not necessary.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Spartan Mark

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If I move the B and I wires to B1 and L, and run another 36-v wire to the B stud and the "trigger" wire to the converter from the I stud, wouldn't that give me basically on OFF-ACC-RUN switch rather than the traditional wiring of OFF-RUN-LIGHT switch? Doesn't that solve the problem of keeping the cart in RUN mode to run the radio and other accessories?

Yes, that will make it an Off-Acc-Run switch.

Be sure to connect the Acc input stud to a 36V source that stays on constantly or is 36V whenever the Run/Tow switch is in Run.

Like the Series drives, the voltage to the keyswitch drops out when the F/R is moved.