1999 txt moves an inch

[dewzer]

Thank you for the diagram.
One difference is, the controller does not have the A2 terminal.
I took some time with it yesterday and I have an issue with the harness coming out of the ITS box. I have power to the switch, coming out of the switch and no power to the 4 terminal plugs red wire near the controller. I checked for continuity and have a reading but the 37V does not show up in a voltage drop test. Could be a brake in the wires near the bend points leaving a strand or two to give me continuity. Would also explain the eratic reading at the 'ITS' last week.
This has been a true basket case, thats for sure.
I told the boss I was going to push it in the pond and he stated it had been there already about 3 years ago.
Thanks again, I will keep this updated.

[sportcoupe]

Service manual will help you troubleshoot.
2001 Repair and Service Manual

[dewzer]

Thanks very much.
I was able to go through allot of the test procedures leaving off at the two switches at the FNR selector and if there good I am heading to the motor. My eratic readings at the 'ITS' were a wire issue and also another from the ign. switch was bad.
I have had my doubts on this motor sence it was rebuilt, gut instink. The place that did it does not have a very good reputation.
I am just filtering through the leftovers of a guy who didnt know what he was doing to top it off.
I mentioned to the boss I should have striped the cart and strated from bare bones.
He in turn looked up the past work orders and sence the pond incindent, there has been quite a bit done to it.
I am on the right track thanks to all of you.
I really do appreate every bit of infromation.
Steve

[dewzer]

Just an FYI for those of you that may have this year, 1999, cart with the #1206 / 24/36V 350Amp Master Drive controller.
The B and D selector wires are as follows.
B to S2 and D to S1.
If you wire it like the print shows it runs in reverse.
I watched myself do it.
I pulled another cart out of service and looked at the wireing and it is as I discribed.
Why I dont know but it is what it is I guess.
I dont have the A2 terminal on the controller so I think that has something to do with it.
As far as the cart, I am now pulling the motor to see what is up as everything sends me to that as an issue.
I will keep you in the loop~~

[JohnnieB]

The A2 terminal on the controller is for a function called "Plug Braking" and as I understand it, it keeps the motor from locking up when the F/R is shifted while moving. Not much a need for this feature in golf carts but used a lot by forklift operators.

It being there or not, or even being there and not connected won't make your cart behave like it is.

As for the way the cables are connected on the F/R switch, whatever works correctly is the right way.

With the F/R lever in R (Beeper sounding), you can change the direction the motor rotates by doing any one of the following.
Swap B and D on F/R
Swap A and C on F/R
Swap A1 and A2 on Motor
Swap S1 and S2 on Motor

So there are several combinations that will work.

------------
If I understand the problem, the solenoid clicks, but the cart only move an inch or so.

Remove the Pre-charge resistor from across the large solenoid terminals and try it.
If the cart no longer moves at all, the solenoid contacts are bad.

[dewzer]

Here is where it left me off today.
Everything checks out good as far as test procedures.
At first it would only move an inch but felt like it wanted to go but nothing, same with reverse.
Now, after all the fiddeling, I hit the peddle and again it wants to go so I gave it a push and it will move but very slow. Same with rev.
Here are my thoughts.
Everything led me to the motor, The place that did the cleaning and checking/rebuilding, whatever they did are not reputable.
I am wondering if when they put the end cap that holds the brushes back on if the springs are still on the sides of the brush and not pushing down on them like they are supposed to be.
Just thinking out loud.
The cart wants to go, and truthfully it feels like dead batteries.
Voltage sitting is 37.3 and when I floor it it drops to 36.8 and no lower than 36.3 when I help it along.
If I jack it up the tires spin F&R no problem, just no power when it hits the ground.
I busted hinney today getting mowing equipment ready for tomorrow so I have a few hours in the AM to check the possible issue I mentioned with the brushes.
Unless you think I missed the boat somewhere???
Please keep in mind I started this project off notes left by a guy that should not have been there, just didn't know it at the time.
Edit: I put a new sol. on it yesterday and the same results.

[cgtech]

try this... on the controller, hook 1 lead of the voltmeter to B+, other lead to M-, gas it with wheels off the ground, then repeat the test with wheels on the ground. both times the reading should be around 36v, if the first reading is good but the second reading is bad, i would say you have a bad motor controller.

[dewzer]

B+ to M-, wheels off the ground. 36.6 volts
B+ to M-, wheels on the ground. 36.5 volts.
I am going to toss the charger back on just to bring my batteries back to their full state of charge.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by dewzer

B+ to M-, wheels off the ground. 36.6 volts
B+ to M-, wheels on the ground. 36.5 volts.
I am going to toss the charger back on just to bring my batteries back to their full state of charge.

After you get the batteries charged, try measuring the voltage across the motor windings.

Your cart isn't wired the same as the schematic, so put the negative test lead on the Armature stud that is connected to M- (A1?) and the positive lead on the Stator stud the goes to F/R "D" (S2?).

When the cart is on the ground, if you are getting fully battery pack voltage (or mighty close to it) and the cart isn't moving, the motor is bad.
If it is significantly less than pack voltage, there is high resistance somewhere in the high current loop, limiting amp flow through the motor.

[cgtech]

what i get from this is: your motor controller IS doing its job, The problem is in the F&R or motor, or cables after the controller (from controller to F&R, or from F&R to motor)