Radio shuts off when volume loud & gas pressed

[Golfswithbeer]

Also... Had the head unit restart several times and its always when blasting a song loud with bass notes and when hitting the accelerator... However the volts only dropped to 11.2-11.5 when the radio was rebooting. No flipping idea.....????

[Spudgunman]

Well we all gave a few ideas - get bigger wire. A cap isn't a fix it's a bandaid for a problem that your covering up.

Run heavier wire or more wire.

[pachanga90]

Capacitor isnt a bandaid,look at competition stereos,they all run them,it prevents voltage-drop with bass on amp-systems.I would also run the larger power cables to the radio.Bass draws alot of amps,compared to higher level tones.Hope this helps.

[Raceteck]

If this is a GAS cart it is wrong to use a deep cycle battery, deep cycle batteries are as the name implies, intended to be DEEP cycled. My thoughts on this are some of the above #1 being a concern of the gauge of the wire(s) feeding the stereo. #2 make sure you have a DEDICATED ground to the overhead and are not relying on the connection between the top supports and the frame. #3 Is the stereo able to meet are Speaker requirements? #4 are the speakers wired to all 4 channels or just front and rear? #5 Has the battery had a load test done? Most parts stores will do this free. #6 All big bass systems could benefit from a capacitor AND diode. The diode being so the starter does not draw the capacitor down during cranking. Try the free stuff first, (wire gauge, ground, then battery load test) and this should solve it.

[Golfswithbeer]

Originally Posted by Raceteck

If this is a GAS cart it is wrong to use a deep cycle battery, deep cycle batteries are as the name implies, intended to be DEEP cycled. My thoughts on this are some of the above #1 being a concern of the gauge of the wire(s) feeding the stereo. #2 make sure you have a DEDICATED ground to the overhead and are not relying on the connection between the top supports and the frame. #3 Is the stereo able to meet are Speaker requirements? #4 are the speakers wired to all 4 channels or just front and rear? #5 Has the battery had a load test done? Most parts stores will do this free. #6 All big bass systems could benefit from a capacitor AND diode. The diode being so the starter does not draw the capacitor down during cranking. Try the free stuff first, (wire gauge, ground, then battery load test) and this should solve it.

The battery was load tested and it is good.
The stereo is grounded to the neg battery post
I will try new thicker power wires
Speakers are wired to all 4 channels
Capacitor is ordered

[rib33024]

The battery is not good if it's going below 12 volts, 12.73 is a fully charged battery, just because the auto store told you it was good don't mean nothing, they don;t have a clue about a battery and other things. And just so you know, my home stereo does the same thing as your cart radio , if i hook some big speakers to it and crank it up it dies, if i unhook two speakers i can crank it up and it won't cut out it works fine

[Golfswithbeer]

Originally Posted by rib33024

The battery is not good if it's going below 12 volts, 12.73 is a fully charged battery, just because the auto store told you it was good don't mean nothing, they don;t have a clue about a battery and other things. And just so you know, my home stereo does the same thing as your cart radio , if i hook some big speakers to it and crank it up it dies, if i unhook two speakers i can crank it up and it won't cut out it works fine

How do you combat your home stereo (other than not cranking it up)... or is there even a way to stop this from happening? What is weird is that I can crank the stereo with bass notes while it is not running and it works great for as long as I want it to (if the batt. could stay charged) but as soon as I ask the battery to crank all 4 speakers and turn over my cart engine, forget about it. Engine cranks fine but stereo takes a quick nap.

[Spudgunman]

Originally Posted by pachanga90

Capacitor isnt a bandaid,look at competition stereos,they all run them,it prevents voltage-drop with bass on amp-systems.I would also run the larger power cables to the radio.Bass draws alot of amps,compared to higher level tones.Hope this helps.

Professionally I will disagree.. First competition stereo systems typically have the because the people who fund them require them. Because people spend money on them - just so you know the likelyhood of buying a $50 2f cap and getting a 2f cap is unlikely more likely you will have a .7f cap in a really big package.


Also you said it bass is amps. Car stereo caps are not intended for amps

1-farad capacitor can hold 1 amp-second of electrons at 1 volt. Sounds cool right well it's totally counter productive to have a storage battery and a cap. Wit no alternator. The draw on the system is a waste of energy from your storage battery. Think about it when your bass hits you pull the cap low, the battery then must recharge the system and power the radio still - so it could get worse quicker.

Next likely the OP would put the cap next to his battery - not solving anything at all. You need the cap next to (directly) the current draw. So you need the cap mounted in your stereo console overhead to be anywhere near effective.. Then to be really effective you need I to recharge quickly for the bass bass bass drops. With under spec cable your making the problem even worse now!

Remember that competition systems use battery banks and alternator banks to power the systems and use multiple 0 or 00 gauge wire to get power away for the engine effectively. Also competition systems use very effective speaker boxes and sound pressure physics to make it thump.. It has Nothing at all to do with a cap..


In the end I would suggest that if the OP wants constant thumps - convert your cart to constant idle and use a neutral gear. Much like a conventional car system.

Your better off with a 2nd battery over a cap. A cap is a bandaid covering up other problems. If caps were so cool you would see them used in electric cars and golf carts.

[Spudgunman]

Originally Posted by Golfswithbeer

How do you combat your home stereo (other than not cranking it up)... or is there even a way to stop this from happening? What is weird is that I can crank the stereo with bass notes while it is not running and it works great for as long as I want it to (if the batt. could stay charged) but as soon as I ask the battery to crank all 4 speakers and turn over my cart engine, forget about it. Engine cranks fine but stereo takes a quick nap.

Your home stereo uses a transformer from a 15a 110v AC power source nothing we compare to the car audio world.

As for your "what is wrong"
Your battery is likely bad because you let it de-charge too far, underpowered for cold cranking amps, your generator might be old and having problems.. Your wiring is causing a power shortage.

[Spudgunman]

Originally Posted by Raceteck

If this is a GAS cart it is wrong to use a deep cycle battery, deep cycle batteries are as the name implies, intended to be DEEP cycled. My thoughts on this are some of the above #1 being a concern of the gauge of the wire(s) feeding the stereo. #2 make sure you have a DEDICATED ground to the overhead and are not relying on the connection between the top supports and the frame. #3 Is the stereo able to meet are Speaker requirements? #4 are the speakers wired to all 4 channels or just front and rear? #5 Has the battery had a load test done? Most parts stores will do this free. #6 All big bass systems could benefit from a capacitor AND diode. The diode being so the starter does not draw the capacitor down during cranking. Try the free stuff first, (wire gauge, ground, then battery load test) and this should solve it.

Well deep cycle batteries have come a long way - typically you wouldn't put a deep cycle in a car because of the charge profile from a alternator - as well as the lack of CCR - since golf carts rant normally used in a extreme environment and the cranking requirements on a single piston are low - it's debatable if there is a loss there.

Ideally the Op would have two batteries a starting and a deep cycle for the stereo. As well as a battery maintainer on the system when parked In the garage.

----

You also bring up a very good point about the speakers. OP you said they are outdoor speakers - possibly 8ohm - where the car stereo is expecting 4ohm ... This is going to cause your stereo amp to work harder and therefor pull more power then you expect.. (Or then your original installers or the manufacture)

Another free tip simply wire them in mono parallel and see if your problem goes away (assuming they are 8ohm) you might have a internal reset because of this.