New to this section...I found a workhorse

[scottyb]

They used to pull a drag around the riding arena to smooth out the ground for the horses....And I think they hauled a lot of horse $hit in the back There is fine, fine dirt piled high in every nook and cranny.....
Next step will be the pressure washer, oil change, & a valve adjustment.
Hopefully....I'm cruising over to the neighbor ( Yamaha G11A owner) tonite to show off my find.

[scottyb]

Dropped a battery in and cut the cables back to good wire and installed new ends.....Away she went. Too bad the neighbor wasn't home. SO; the belt that looked too big slips at first but there was no slipping when it was moving even on the steep drive way...I'm sure the clutches are original and the cart has 2000 hours on it so it is likely that they need replacing or rebuilding....There was someone on here that was showing how to rebuild a GC clutch? Anyone know how or remember that thread?


I hosed it off and I think I got a yard of free topsoil in the deal LOL

[ruredy]

Your probably in need of a belt. did you read the sticky thread about shorter belts? I have seen much older, working clutches, that have been used on golf course maintenance carts.

[scottyb]

Yes, I read that a while back ......I'll go back and reread it I need a belt number. That is good to hear about clutches older than mine
Jon, do you know the Champion plug equivelant for this motor?

[ruredy]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Jon, do you know the Champion plug equivelant for this motor?

No, sure don't.

[scottyb]

Okay, I just read the shorter belt stickie thread. The whole thing, all 37 pages!!! My head hurts, I had to go back to the begining to re-confirm what I learned on page 1 after all those redundend Qs..... I am curious to rebuild a clutch but, will go with the more bang for the buck, Ezgo belt number 22337-G1 (Nivel #1097. My carts are used like yours in semi-hilly terrain..Also think I am going to go with the Allsports 6" long travel lift that roady89 said was so well built.I have had 3 spindle lift carts and they just tend to beat the stuffing outta you over rough terrain. I run em on the construction sites and often am running in dozer tracks or a scraper path.....Thank you,Jon

[scottyb]

Shorter belt works great I used the belt listed for a 2 stroke on my 4 stroke.....It is exactly 1 inch shorter and works good... I also took the time to remove the govenor, cut and reweld the accelorator cable bracket and reconnect direct to the cam at the rear end....It works just like a car, very nice throttle now....no more spongy foot Changed oil and air cleaner ...Champion plug equivalent is j12y....Running good and looking for a suitable lift...I have some 20x11x10 Trailwolfs I want to run.

[ruredy]

If your not wanting to dump a bunch of $$$ into a lift for it, there is an easy way.. For around the price of those econo-crap block lifts you can buy the parts to put a drop axle under it. The ST350 drop axle weldment will bolt right up, the only thing that may be a problem is on some the tie rods can rub the springs when compressed. A small spacer between where the weldment and the springs bolt together will correct that (if it's a problem). The ST350 spindles have taller risers which moves the tie rod father away from the springs. On my orange cart the weldment bolted right up with no problems.
On the rear you use 2 3/8" spring perches and some new ubolts, I think 6 1/2" on those. You have to cut off the centering tabs and bottoming out stops on the rear to put in the spring perches in. You don't need to weld them on but can if you want, I just bolt them down where they lay and it's good to go. You may need to swap around your brake backing plates around to get the cable pulls to come out on the bottom if needed, i've done it both ways (it depends on what parts you use for the lift) You'll need shock extension if done with ubolts. you can buy the iso mount plate for a txt and use threaded rod or bolts instead of ubolts, this moves the shock mount to the right location.

[scottyb]

Thanks Jon! bhfear and I were looking at it the other day and he was telling me how the axle could 'flip' and the brakes swap sides etc. Then he said in front a guy could make some spring mount standoffs with pipe and extra original spring mount plates. Really you do the whole lift with just a little welding....I flipped the rear axles on my '89 DS cart this way. I cut the the spring mount plates off and welded them onto the top side of the axle tubes. I remember then I had to fab a drop down brake cable holder. Here is where I'm at on this....this cart rides better than a CC Carryall or DS. It is not just because it is a foot longer, though, that doesn't hurt. I don't want to do any thing to make the ride harder. That is why I was considering $$$ for the lift?

[scottyb]

JOn, can you post a pic of one or the other type steering arm or knuckle for clarification? I read this on a lift ad." IF YOUR CART HAS THE STEERING KNUCKLES IT IS A 2001.5 AND UP, IF IT HAS A STEERING BRACKET IT IS THE 2001.5 BACK." I'm thinking I have knuckles? But not sure?