EZ GO Dead

[4Runner]

I posted a hepl Thread 6 days ago and had no takers. Well Ive troubleshot some parts and replaced a part and Im still with a dead cart. Batteries fully charged (36.9 volts). problem as best as I can describe it. Key switch in ON or OFF position the back wheels want to turn as if the motor is tugging but don't seam to have enough juice to move the wheels. This occurs at all time the switch is on or off until I move the switch too tow. With the switch in on position I can push the pedal down and I hear a clicking noise coming from the pedal switch, I also hear a clicking noise from the solenoid but the cart does not move and I get nothing from the solenoid for a few seconds or I move the selector to REV and I can push the pedal and get the same response solenoid kicks in and stick for a period of time and comes back off. This occurs both in REV and FWD.

1996 TXT

Troubleshooting:Connect (+) probe to the BL+ battery post. (36.9 volts)
POWER TO THE CONTROLLER - Key switch ON, FORWARD Direction
Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).(36.9 volts)

Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage.(36.5 volts)

If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. (its more 0.4 volts dont know if this is the culprit)
If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid. It is not so Solenoid is GOOD

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch ON - Forward direction - Accel. pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached. DID NOT test with jumper

AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER

Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is NOT present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty. (36.9 Volts)
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but LESS than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty. (14.16 Volts)
Separate the (4) four pin connector between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment. If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty. If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty. (14.49 Volts)

RECONNECT the (4) four pin connector.

Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector. Depress the pedal slowly.
The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the microswitch is activated. (0.50 Volts)
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle. To ready should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts. (1.61 Volts)
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE

CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT

Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.Reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.(0.52 Volts at first, Once pedal is pushed down and solenoid is activated it does not go back to 0.0 it fluxuate's 3.20 to 3.50)
Slowly depress accel. pedal. The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. (it does 37.1 Volts)
If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, wiring or the motor. (37.1 Volts)
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit. This is where I stopped.

So can any one help? I just want to add I did get the cart to move a few times when pressing the pedal to the floor but it doesnt move now.

Thanks

[roady89]

Did you test the ITS? Also sounds like you have some wiring issues because you say it does it with key ON or OFF. Grab a manual from the stickies, your going to have to start tracing wires.

INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR key switch ON - Forward direction - Accel. pedal pushed JUST to solenoid activation.

P.S. Welcome to BGW

[roady89]

Service manual here-----> http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/28646.pdf

[4Runner]

No I didnt test ITS, I didnt have a test procedure. I do now and thanks Ill test some more later and get back.

Originally Posted by roady89

Did you test the ITS? Also sounds like you have some wiring issues because you say it does it with key ON or OFF. Grab a manual from the stickies, your going to have to start tracing wires.




P.S. Welcome to BGW

[gornoman]

Also, 36.9vdc is only 65% charged. Have you measured the voltage of EACH battery?

[4Runner]

What are you saying 65% at 36.9 volts? The golf cart is a 37 volt cart and the batteries are 6 volt each.

Originally Posted by gornoman

Also, 36.9vdc is only 65% charged. Have you measured the voltage of EACH battery?

[rabbitreborn]

a 36 volt cart will charge to approximately 6.5-7 volts PER battery so when fully charged the pack reading should be between 39 and 40 volts.

Have you attempted to engage the motor on it's own with 12 volts to make sure it will spin?

Also, have you inspected the contacts on the F&R?

[4Runner]

Good info did not know that? Ill put it back on charger till I get to troubleshooting some more. No I didn't check the motor but if you can tell me how Ill defiantly test it to narrow it down and I dont know what the F&R is. (FWD & REV)

Thanks.

Originally Posted by rabbitreborn

a 36 volt cart will charge to approximately 6.5-7 volts PER battery so when fully charged the pack reading should be between 39 and 40 volts.

Have you attempted to engage the motor on it's own with 12 volts to make sure it will spin?

Also, have you inspected the contacts on the F&R?

[scottyb]

Also the tests you posted are for a series cart with a 6 pin connector but you said you had a run/tow switch which is on the DCS & PDS carts with 10 pin connectors? So can you clarify which drive system you have? Maybe you just have the wrong cover on your controller and that is why the run /tow switch is not cutting off the ignition as it should? I'm confused

[rabbitreborn]

to test the motor:

Raise the rear of the vehicle off the ground and support on jackstands.
remove motor access cover.
remove (and label) all 4 wires currently attached to the motor Use 2 wsrenches per wire to do this so as not to damage the motor (I find a tappet wrench works best for the nut under the wire). Tape the wire ends for safety.
connect a wire between the A2 and S2 posts of the motor. A short battery wire works best. Again, use 2 wrenches when installing this.
using a 12 volt source (auto battery or use 2 of the batteries from within the cart itself hooked in series) attach 12 volt negative to the S1 post and 12 volt positive to the A1 post.
Motor should rotate slowly If not, recheck connections. If still not turning, you have a bad motor. If motor is turning, triple check all the wiring between the batteries, solenoid, controller, F&R, and motor.


the F&R is the Forward and Reverse switch.