New Alltrax and Solenoid install: nothing working

[scottyb]

Can we see a pic of the stock solenoid of what would be the left side in your picture.

[Speedchaser]

Go look at your wires that were originally coming off the large bat side post of solenoid, a little pigtail that plugged into that wire, that is how mine is hooked up, here is a ppic attached.

Your is dangling and should plug into the wire in the harness.

[cmar143]

Maybe you have to do a hard reset on the obc. Here are the instructions
To reset the OBC the following must be done in this
order:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse to Neutral
• Tow/Run Switch to Tow
• Disconnect the Battery NEGATIVE (–) wire
from the Battery Minus terminal on the battery
pack.
• Put the Tow/Run to Run
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Reverse
• Key Switch to On
• Lock the throttle pedal down
The reverse buzzer will sound and go off in about 30
seconds. Leave the cart like that for 5 min to cause the
OBC to reset.
To reconnect the OBC back into the system:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Neutral
• Tow/Run switch to Tow
• Reconnect the Batt – wire to the battery minus
terminal on the battery pack.

PS...Alltrax had a problem with the throttle on the 2009 Precedents and the Alltrax controllers reading the signal smooth and that year can be hit or miss as far as the controller working properly. I am going though this right now with a 2012 Precedent that I tried an DCX300IQ in. Looks like CC changed to an MCOR 3 now for this year and when checking ohms off of it the values are all over the place and not smooth like they should be. I dont know how the Curtis can possibly read that signal properly but it does and unfortunately the Alltrax doesnt but it does power up and give a green light like its supposed to. Whether or not the controller works well with your 2009 it should power up and give a green light no matter what.

PSS...Use the PDF on Alltrax website for the IQ wiring diagram because the inclosed instructions that I got were wrong as far as wires going to A1 and A2 on the motor.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Speedchaser

Go look at your wires that were originally coming off the large bat side post of contoller, a little pigtail that plugged into that wire, that is how mine is hooked up, here is a ppic attached.

In Speedchaser's pic the diode stripe is toward the solid blue wire and in your picture the diode strip is toward the striped blue wire.

[scottyb]

The solenoid has no polarity. Both of the big cables are + positive. You simply install the diode so the banded end is toward the + 0r positive activation wire. SC's pic leads me to believe that is the solid color blue wire since his works and yours doe not click.

[Speedchaser]

Originally Posted by scottyb

In Speedchaser's pic the diode stripe is toward the solid blue wire and in your picture the diode strip is toward the striped blue wire.

Also please note in my post that I meant to say solenoid, not controller, I edited my post.

[Speedchaser]

Correct Scottyb, the right side of my solenoid in the positive side coming directly off +battery.

Would a backward diode cause the cart not to work? I think he needs to switch the diode and also plug those wires together.

[scottyb]

A backwards diode is a direct short. It could cause the solenoid not to work and it could damage a micro switch which is used to supply power to the solenoid activation circuit which would explain the old control not working.

[Speedchaser]

Also, the smaller blue wire is for lights and is not connected to the solenoid, it is coming from a 12 volt converter and plugs into another pigtail on the wire harness.

I believe that the red wires he has dangling goes to the key switch which is why he was not getting power to the controller, purely speculation though.

[Speedchaser]

So he is probably lucky he did not have power as he could have shorted his controller due to a backward diode.