oil change

[sho305]

Single cylinder splash lawn equipment is commonly 25 hour change interval. However it is run at 3600 and working most all the time while your cart engine is not. On top of that synthetic oil lasts longer I usually run it 50% longer sometimes 100% longer in cars depending on how stressed they are. I would easily run it 50 hours on synthetic but I don't have an hour meter. I would recommend you use zinc additive more importantly, or use an offroad oil but most are not synthetic. Car oils they took most of the zinc out and its important for high pressure lube, since a splash engine is not pressure oiled the zinc is more important.

I don't worry about condensation, I've lived in the snow belt all my life and when something is frozen there is no condensation lol. It can be an issue if you don't run it long enough to steam the moisture out....short trips in cold weather will collect a lot of it but storage usually is not a problem unless you park it in a swamp for storage.

When I trail ride my cart I change it once a year, but I'd say that is maybe 50-75 hours max, I use synthetic. I only run the cart a lot for maybe 4-5 months usually only weekends. Lately not been running the cart on trails mostly around yard and close by, limited speeds, not much WOT running, lot less hours, change it every 2 years at minimum. I look for some cheaper synthetic on sale to use in it, I figure even cheap synthetic is great stuff like napa brand for example which I think is made by valvoline anyway. And I use the zinc additive in it. I ran the snot out of my cart over ten years with no governor up to 6 hours riding trips and finally the oil ring let go, now running a clone.

[sjfishon]

whow sho;; over 10k post, you auta get something for that, like thanks as i said my cart is really on light duty. i live in a gated community, nice blacktop roads, my cart runs for 15 min. to half hour then back in the garage for cleaning. i use the farm and fleet brand full syn. oil. i have always had real good luck with all there products,, 2.25 per qt. its was 2 years and looked prety good on the stick. but when it came out it was prety black,it did smell real good though, you know you can smell the burn in bad oil?? any way its done for 2 years,, also i wanted to say, in my cart i use 2oz of good old Gum Out carb cleaner, this stuff works, and stable; in the fall. if you want a very smooth running cart try the gum out,,its the same formula they use in ww2, to ship military overseas. in 1 tank of gas, i added 5oz and by the time it was half, it was smooth.. thanks again for the info

[Spicyunicorn]

sho305 im not trying to start anything i live in iowa witch is similar climate as Michigan.. but you cant tell me when you go out on a late winter day when the dew point is high and temp is close to dew point you cant tell me there isnt an abundance of moisture piling up on that cold metal/aluminum point being any sort of condensation isnt good for interals pay the 7-10 dollars for a quart of oil and change it... oils cheap compared to a rebuilt just my humble opinion

[sjfishon]

spicy;; i did change it, and i do agree there is a lot of moisture in a cold engine. just watch the exhaust pipe when you first start it it will drip water. as you know oil and water wont mix,, so you can see there is very little harm to any engine, from the internal moisture. where the problem lies is where the water goes, and all the small pockets it will stay in, that's why the mufflers on cars always rust at the bottom.. on my cars i , believe it or not;;; drill a very small weep hole in the lowest point of the muffler. i have a 15 year old ford focus, that the muffler looks like new, you auta see the puddle when i start it, coming out the hole,, anyway RAMBLING;;;;;;;;; i think as long as you warm up a engine the moisture will be blown out.. with no harm done;;

[sho305]

Originally Posted by Spicyunicorn

sho305 im not trying to start anything i live in iowa witch is similar climate as Michigan.. but you cant tell me when you go out on a late winter day when the dew point is high and temp is close to dew point you cant tell me there isnt an abundance of moisture piling up on that cold metal/aluminum point being any sort of condensation isnt good for interals pay the 7-10 dollars for a quart of oil and change it... oils cheap compared to a rebuilt just my humble opinion

True if you leave something outside, but I don't have water all over my garage and where I store the cart is dry I make sure of it. Never put anything in winter storage wet or with wet things. When it gets freezing out I turn on the heat and make sure its dry in there if need be. Generally air will not be circulating through the inside of an engine when its not running. On the other hand I usually run my cart until the snow is too deep to get through, 2-3 months of deep freeze and I have it out soon as the snow has melted down. I used to store it elsewhere but too boring now I keep it at home for the winter. Yes changing the oil is never a bad idea, but wasting it is, so you have to draw a line there someplace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enIFSpMP_zI

New cars the exhaust is all 409 Stainless to meet emissions regs, since the converters make water you always have water pouring out the exhaust.