G29 Drive troubleshooting

[trentofdestiny]

Okay then I would try these tests
http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/FX302_...nstruction.pdf


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[bdeer]

Im not sure what terminals do what on the motor but i did check continuity with ohm meter. Terminals a1, a2 and f2 all have continuity with each other and with the motor casing. F1 has continuity with nothing(other terminals or casing). Not sure if that helps narrow anything down or if that is correct.

To test the motor, what terminals on the motor do i jump 48 volts to make sure the motor is good( will jack up the rear end)?

[trentofdestiny]

NO terminals should have continuity with the motor casing. You should disconnect all the motor wires before testing though to make sure you're not getting a false reading through the wiring.
I would say you need a motor. You could leave all the wires disconnected (tape them) and see if you can get the click more than once or if the reverse buzzer stays on when you hit the pedal


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[bdeer]

ok i will try that

to test the motor do i connect power to a1 and a2?

[trentofdestiny]

I wouldn't try that since it seems the motor is shorted. Disconnect all wires from the motor and use the ohm meter. A1 to A2 and F1 to F2 should have continuity but not to each other (between A and F) and certainly not to the case.


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[bdeer]

Originally Posted by trentofdestiny

I wouldn't try that since it seems the motor is shorted. Disconnect all wires from the motor and use the ohm meter. A1 to A2 and F1 to F2 should have continuity but not to each other (between A and F) and certainly not to the case.


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ok, with wires disconnected i have no continutity between any of the motor terminals but do have continuity between a2 and the motor case. Does that mean my motor is shorted out?

i did try cycling the tow/run switch, the key and the throttle with the motor unhooked. Got the same results as before as far as clicks.

Does it sound like im looking at a new motor or possibly a new motor and controller?

[trentofdestiny]

Seems like the controller is sensing the motor circuits aren't right and is locking itself out. That's normal. And yes the motor should not have continuity to the case from any terminal.


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[bdeer]

an ideas on replacing/repairing the motor. Would a local place that rebuilds starters for cars etc be a decent option or should i look more into the admiral or d and d type options?

[trentofdestiny]

Depends on where you live but your best and cheapest bet would be a used stock motor from someone who upgraded theirs. A new stock motor is as much as a performance motor, so might as well buy a performance motor if you're dead-set on going new.


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[cgtech]

Our local starter/alternator/generator rebuild joint is the go-to for typical rebuilds (turn armature, brushes & bearings, ect). I would at least ask them. There are many better motor options than the stock one. Our site sponsors offer many options. Don't know if ScottyB is still messing with the new FSIP motors, but I liked the ones I have used. It's "technically compatible" with stock controllers, but you would get much better performance if paired with a upgraded controller. I have never tried one on a stock Yamaha controller.