Melted/Overheated A1 & A2 cables

[kernal]

Originally Posted by weaselorlando

I have been troubleshooting my G19 cart and found the A1 cable lug was melted off. The motor stud is a little loose too. I am not sure if it was loose enough to cause arcing and melted the lug? I ran a 4 gauge cable I had and the cart is running again. While looking at the other cables , I see that the A2 cable looks like it’s been overheated as well. These are 2 gauge cables that are about 1year old. The cart gets lots of use. Sometimes with a lot of weight. If the cart is running near it’s max load, would you expect heat issues here at these locations? Any ideas? Thanks

Weasel

I had a similar experience once. EZGO (series wound motor) in this case but a high speed motor with a maxed out load on a trip from the Flat Creek area to Falcon Field and back. Cart made it but cable attachment at A2 on the motor suffered heat damage and failed a couple weeks later. That was a couple years ago and no issues since but I have never loaded the cart like that again for such a distance.
Over the years, I have read of similar occurrences with PlumQuick bandit motors having issues while used in like situations. I'm thinking the speed motors don't like high torque requirements with the heavy weight and/or large tires.
If you are doing this occasionally and on relatively short trips, the heat damage could be minor each time but accumulative resulting eventually in the situation you have now.
If it were me, I might be thinking about a different motor. A long case and possibly vented. Maybe off the shelf or possibly custom wound. Probably expensive but also likely even better performance and certainly more reliable.
But this is all just a guess on my part.

[weaselorlando]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I will give that some thought.


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[weaselorlando]

Driving the cart today with just 1 person on the cart caused the A2 cable to heat up to where it was untouchable. The replacement A1 cable was a little warm. Normal I would say after 15 minuets of sustained driving. My plan is to replace the brush set/ motor studs. While I am doing that, clean,look for any other problems in the motor. If it’s not motor related, what else might be causing this? I have no experience with working on electric motors so I am open for pointers to look for when I get this open. Are the brushes for this upgraded motor the same new style GE brushes for stock G19. Any other parts should I inspect/ clean / replace while I have the motor open? Thanks

Weasel




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[Raystar57]

Replace the A2 cable or at least the terminal also if you haven't already.
Motor/brush inspection should be next.
The commutator may be worn and may need to be trued by a motor shop.
Bearing, I would replace it but it may be ok as it.
What you don't want to do is have a failed bearing take out the motor...

Open it up, clean it out with air hose and post some pics, you will have some response about it.

Excessive heat can be generated by poor brush contact and excessive brush arcing.

This is from a stock Club Car GE motor cleaned up by hand.

[weaselorlando]

I got the motor out. I had to remove the shock to make room to get the motor out. Looks like whoever installed this motor grinned the case out. The A2 stud broke off. It was very brittle from overheating I would guess.


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[weaselorlando]

My brush wires look different then you stock photo. The brush wires in your photo looks like the ones I have seen on the parts websites. My stud wires are not permanently connected to the brushes. They are joined at a junction terminal. So I guess the standard brush kit will not work on this motor? I will clean up the commutator and see about changing out the bearing. Should the commutator supposed to be smooth and shiny. It has parallel groves in it. Should I take it all the way to smooth? Is the bearing removable without a puller?


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[weaselorlando]

Originally Posted by weaselorlando

My brush wires look different then you stock photo. The brush wires in your photo looks like the ones I have seen on the parts websites. So I guess the standard brush kit will not work on this motor? My stud wires are not permanently connected to the brushes. They connect at a terminal junction I will clean up the commutator and see about changing out the bearing. Should the commutator supposed to be smooth and shiny. It has parallel groves in it. Should I take it all the way to smooth? Is the bearing removable without a puller?


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[weaselorlando]

Making some progress on the commutator . I found this on Buggies. Unlimited. This looks similar to my setup.


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[weaselorlando]

I am still trying to identify my motor so as to buy the correct parts. I found this motor label and it obviously looks very similar to mine. I would think it’s safe to assume that my motor is a rebranded GE motor?







I also found “Cross-Over Wire and Stud with Insulating Pads Fits GE / JB Motors”
13405-G1
13407-G1
13407-G2



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[cgtech]

Yes it's a GE. Bearing is pressed on, but it's not super hard. I have used a automotive battery terminal remover to pull the bearing, and a hammer to reinstall. Be sure to only apply force to the inner race when installing, this is important.