1992 ignition coil

[alntex]

Shadowman et. al. I think I may also have a heat sensitive coil or ignitor and I am sure I can replace/relocate the ignitor, but, how does one get the flywheel cover and shrouds removed to access the coil? Al

[shadowman]

Originally Posted by alntex

Shadowman et. al. I think I may also have a heat sensitive coil or ignitor and I am sure I can replace/relocate the ignitor, but, how does one get the flywheel cover and shrouds removed to access the coil? Al

what year? if its a 92 or newer no need to pull flywheel if its a 1991 or older you have to yank the engine out to get the flywheel off................but the coil isn,t under the flywheel its bolted to the outside cover its the exitor coil thats under the flywheel and that has to stay put you can,t move the exitor coil...............................

[alntex]

Originally Posted by shadowman

what year? if its a 92 or newer no need to pull flywheel if its a 1991 or older you have to yank the engine out to get the flywheel off................but the coil isn,t under the flywheel its bolted to the outside cover its the exitor coil thats under the flywheel and that has to stay put you can,t move the exitor coil...............................

Tom, mine is a 92 based on serial number and has the 290 OHV engine with the ignitor & rpm limither mounted under the front of the engine with one wire routed up under a shroud, presumably to the coil, based on schematics. The links shown earlier in this thread did not help in determining how to get the covers off (without yanking engine--yuk). Maybe a good exploded view of this engine would help. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Al

[fastercarter]

Originally Posted by alntex

Tom, mine is a 92 based on serial number and has the 290 OHV engine with the ignitor & rpm limither mounted under the front of the engine with one wire routed up under a shroud, presumably to the coil, based on schematics. The links shown earlier in this thread did not help in determining how to get the covers off (without yanking engine--yuk). Maybe a good exploded view of this engine would help. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Al

.

No need to pull the motor, just remove the flywheel shroud. Some sneaky bolts but an easy 1 hour start to finish job once you know where the bolts are.

FC.

[shadowman]

Originally Posted by fastercarter

.

No need to pull the motor, just remove the flywheel shroud. Some sneaky bolts but an easy 1 hour start to finish job once you know where the bolts are.

FC.

good advice, yes there are 2 i beleive 10mm bolts that arn,t the funnest but you can get them loose enough, take exhaust off than the center peice of cover 4 phillips hold it on than the main cover.......hour and your done..................where the 2 toughies are i think the cover is cutout so you don,t have to take them all the way out just get them loose....................................

[alntex]

Thanks guys, I'll go bust a knuckle and cross my fingers. By the way, do you know if a Rotary 9334 ignitor (replacement ignitor for some Kawasaki motors in John Deere lawn tractors) will work on these 290 motors? They are about 80% less than dealer ignitors (~$20). Later Al

[shadowman]

from what i hear ( have never tried any ) but yes weed wacker ignitors will work......some posted a part # here about a year ago for an ignitor that cost like 20 bucks..............like i said i have never tried one but if you can get a 20 dollar ignitor to work why spend 100 or whatever they cost now......................

[fastercarter]

Originally Posted by shadowman

good advice, yes there are 2 i beleive 10mm bolts that arn,t the funnest but you can get them loose enough, take exhaust off than the center peice of cover 4 phillips hold it on than the main cover.......hour and your done..................where the 2 toughies are i think the cover is cutout so you don,t have to take them all the way out just get them loose....................................

IIRC Tom, that would be the ones on the rear of the shroud closest to the axle.
The shroud is slotted at those points so you are quite correct, back them off a couple of turns but don't take them out. The first one I did, I never noticed the slots and it was a pita getting the bolts back in. I never made that mistake again

FC.

[shadowman]

same thing here i just spent an extra 1/2 hour getting one out that i didn,t have to and ended up never putting that one back in.........................

[alntex]

Well, after quite a bit more than an hour I still cannot remove the shroud because there is a hefty bracket (which holds the muffler support bracket) bolted to the motor and it covers a bolt, which I was able to loosen, but not remove, and apparently not slotted either. I was able to get the shroud partially pulled back to view the coil and the wire that connects to the ignitor but I don't feel like I would have enough space to install a new coil and adjust the gaps properly. Getting that hefty bracket out of the way appears to be the only solution. Oh, I have ordered the inexpensive ignitor from ROTARY and will report those results when available. Thanks Al