Wiring plan for Accessories

[brianb920]

Upgrading my cart to add some additional accessories (lights, radio, etc.) and am having to undo the previous owners wiring.

Attached is what I am planning for the wiring. I am looking for any suggestions or lessons learned from anyone before I get started.

I'm an engineer but have always hated electrical work so I just want everything double checked.

Also, any other tips on making connections, wire sizes, etc. that you have are all greatly appreciated.

My cart: 2013 EZGO TXT electric

Equipment both new and existing:
MadJax 16V x 12V being replaced with Scotty B 48V x 12V DC Converter
STV Motorsports Backlit Rocker Switches
MadJax headlight kit with replacement LED light bulbs in the headlights
12" LED bar unknown brand
Kenwood Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier w/ BT KAC-M1824BT
Xprite 3rd-Gen 4 Pods RGB LED Rock Lights with Bluetooth Controller
Interior lights are 4x30cm LED light strips

[Sir Nuke]

Brian....looks like a good plan to me.....its similar to what I did. One suggestion, or something to remember.....it has to do with your radio. Your radio has a memory circuit which stores your saved stations.....you need to wire straight to a constant dedicated 12v source. otherwise, when you turn off your cart, you will lose all of your presets.

OH and BTW..... Welcome to our happy little corner of the net, and to BGW. There is a BIG fridge on the back porch with anything you can think of in it...help yourself...of course only take what you can LEGALLY have. Make yourself at home on one of the big fluffy couches, kick your shoes off, put your feet up on one of the tables, yes we are allowed to do that, mom's, wives’, husbands, girlfriend’s and boyfriends here don't care....and take it easy.



oh...btw....every once in a while a food fight breaks out...so you may not want to wear nice clothes here.

Welcome!!

[Seaquell]

Looks like you have a good handle on things.
You will probably want a constant powered feed to the radio for memory and the clock it will be a tiny draw so if your 48/12 converter shuts off with the key just wire it to 2 batteries or use your old converter for the always on power.

you are spot on

[Seaquell]

I type to slow

[brianb920]

Thanks for the feedback!

Been lurking here for awhile but never posted.

I'm not installing a radio, just an amp with built in Bluetooth. It's a nice set up and has a wired remote to mount in the dash for controls.

Don't need the constant on for Spotify on my phone!

[skipsmith521]

I took out all the accessories wiring on my cart as well.

Previous owner thought black tape was a good source of connecting wires.

Best thing I did was use quick disconnect connectors on my front and rear lights. My front light assembly required the entire assembly be pulled off the cart to change light bulb...It makes it easy to quick disconnect the wires and pull the assembly.

A good fuse box it a good thing as well.



Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[orangeman6]

Sounds like it will be a nice set up. I think I looked at the stereo you're installing. Your plan looks similar to How I wired mine. I used all 14g and 16g wire. I also used relays for all of the switches and wired my reducer to be on/off regardless of the key. Also, consider soldering where needed.

Just a note, even though it doesn't apply to the op's unit: the new head unit I installed doesn't need a constant power source to maintain the presets. How? Some sort of internal battery? I have no idea, but it doesn't use one.

[brianb920]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

I used all 14g and 16g wire. I also used relays for all of the switches and wired my reducer to be on/off regardless of the key. Also, consider soldering where needed.

I see mention of using relays but don't understand the need for relays after the switches.

What exactly did you use for the relays and where are they wired in?

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by brianb920

I see mention of using relays but don't understand the need for relays after the switches.

What exactly did you use for the relays and where are they wired in?

Absolutely needed? Got to be honest, I really don't know. I have switches controlling the reducer, headlights, stereo, and dome light. I'd guess that the reducer is really the only thing drawing enough amps to bother the switches. (All lights are led). However, I paid a lot for the switches (they're illuminated push button) and someone here that is knowledgeable suggested it. It didn't add a lot to the cost or install time.

I don't have the part number for the one I used for the reducer, but it's heavier duty and capable of handling the total draw of the reducer. The other three are standard automotive relays. Not sure exactly what you're asking about how they're wired, so forgive me if I'm saying something you already know, but basically, the switch opens and closes the relay which passes the actual current the specific appliance is using. It keeps the current from running through the switch.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...txt-rehab.html