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Old 02-07-2018, 10:23 AM   #1
bcontento
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Default 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

I have an '86 club car that we've only had a short time. It worked great when we got it, but over the last few months, it has slowly lost power, torque, etc. now to the point where it is dead or nearly dead. I haven't had it yet to really know it's exact current state. My father had it checked by a so-called "cart guy." and he said it wasn't worth repairing (to expensive to replace and fix everything it needed - motor, solenoids, batteries, wiring) and he'd give us $200 for it. To me, sounds like he's trying to steal it. So, I'd like to run my own series of diagnostics on it to determine what's what. it's an '86 Club Car that the PO converted from 36v to 48v.

Things I'd like to test:
- batteries (charge and load)
I'm planning on topping off the fluid in each then charging them in the cart then removing them to test them. I'll use a volt meter and a hydrometer on each as a start. I'd like to be able to load test each battery individually, but I don't have a good load tester. Is there another option other than buying/borrowing one?

- solenoids
I found a nice set of directions for testing them, so I'm planning on removing them all to test them individually according to this guide: How-to-check-your-Golf-Cart-for-a-Bad-Solenoid

- motor
search returned this: sound right? I assume step 1 really should be disconnect all leads from the motor.
1. Connect S1(or F1) to A2
2. Connect 12 volt posistive from a battery charger to S2(or F2)
3. Connect 12 volt negative from a battery charger to A1
4. Turn on charger, observe , then turn off charger.
If motor runs its ok.

What else can I/should I test? Switches? resistor coils? controller (is there a controller?) Any issues with what I've listed above for testing/procedures?

thanks all!
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:29 AM   #2
scottyb
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

There is no speed controller, this is a five solenoid resistor coiled drive system. The five solenoids should click in succession when you press the go peddle.
Jack the driver side rear wheel up off of the ground and remove the seat. With your hand slowly depress the gas pedal and verify which solenoids are clicking.

The solenoids should click sequentially from the driver side to the passenger side. The solenoid closest to the driver side is the master solenoid. It must click first to provide power the other speed solenoids. The wheels will start to move when solenoid number two clicks and then the wheel should move faster with each sequential solenoid click. Check it out let us know what's happening.
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Old 02-07-2018, 04:59 PM   #3
joesam
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

Quote:
'86 Club Car that the PO converted from 36v to 48v.
If that's true, and the cart still has multiple solenoids - then those solenoids MUST have progressively become "roasted" with the higher voltage. A true 48 volt conversion requires a controller.
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:51 AM   #4
bcontento
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

Quote:
Originally Posted by joesam View Post
If that's true, and the cart still has multiple solenoids - then those solenoids MUST have progressively become "roasted" with the higher voltage. A true 48 volt conversion requires a controller.
Interesting. He couldn't have put 48v solenoids in it? I haven't pulled them yet to see.

I posted back when we got the cart about what I believe to be a field-shortening solenoid and switch that he added. There is a toggle switch he mounted and as he described it to me, it's purpose was to have a low-speed (less voltage) and a higher speed (more voltage) mode. I have no idea what it does, but it certainly doesn't do anything noticeable however, after just reading a little something about field shortening with a switch, is it possible that's what he did? I will be removing that entirely.

It sounds like I may be looking at converting to a solid-state setup IF the motor and batteries are ok. I'm assuming the solenoids are toast, but I'll know soon. Still have to get the cart to my place and start pulling it apart.
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Old 02-08-2018, 10:02 PM   #5
bcontento
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

So, I made it over to my dads to check the cart out tonight. For starters, the batteries were really low on fluid, so I filled them all and reconnected them all. My in-dash volt meter showed 47.9 volts.

I pushed the pedal gradually and could hear the solenoids clicking on in sequence (all 5 of them). Put it in gear and got some movement (didn't let it move much, just wanted to see if it responded at all). Since I hear them each clicking on, does that mean they are OK or should I pull each and test them individually?

NOW the most pressing issue is the FIRE!
When I put the cart in FORWARD, I got a nasty spark/flame at the switch! When I hit the gas, more FIRE! It stops/goes out when I put it back in neutral. So, there's that. I'm assuming I need a new switch ($120 on Carts Unlimited) or parts of the switch, but how do I know what's causing it? Can I replace just the micro switches. I would hate to put a new switch in and burn another one.

I'm planning on letting the cart charge then going back over tomorrow evening to check the voltage of each battery as well as the specific gravity of each. It was suggested by the service tech that if the batteries were dry and unused for a month, they are likely unrecoverable/dead. He said that even if they charge and the hydrometer tests good, that they are still likely shot and won't have any range. How much truth is there to that?
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:19 PM   #6
bcontento
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

I disconnected the charger and went over a few hours later to test the batteries with a hydrometer. Ever cell on every battery except for 2 cells on 1 battery tested top of "good." The two cells on the one battery tested "fair." Is it safe to say the batteries (all but maybe that one) are fine?

I looked into the switch fire/shorting more closely. It sparks between positions, like moving from forward to neutral or neutral to reverse. the slower the slide of position the more spark/fire. To me it sounds like the switch is shot. Any opinions?

Still looking for a recommendation on the solenoids based on my previous note:
I pushed the pedal gradually and could hear the solenoids clicking on in sequence (all 5 of them). Put it in gear and got some movement (didn't let it move much, just wanted to see if it responded at all). Since I hear them each clicking on, does that mean they are OK or should I pull each and test them individually?

Since this cart seems to be more 36v than 48v, would it be wise to use 5 of the 8v batteries instead of 6 to at least get closer to 36v to lessen the overload on the underrated parts?

thanks again all!
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:46 PM   #7
scottyb
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

I would put a new F&R in it and keep charging the batteries
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:27 PM   #8
bcontento
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
I would put a new F&R in it and keep charging the batteries
Thanks Scotty. The CC82F on your site?
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:15 AM   #9
bcontento
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

a few updates, more questions:

I put a good charge on the batteries. The volt meter (little LED one I installed in the dash) showed around 54v after a couple of days charging and remained about 50v after leaving it unplugged from the charger for a day.

I put the new F/R switch in wired exactly how the old one was wired (doesn't mean it was correct). Seemed everything was normal for the most part, but not quite. I drove it from my dad's place to mine (maybe a mile) and it seemed ok. Not as much speed as I think it once had but noticeably low torque running through the grass or up even a mild slope. When I got it back to my place, I started checking things out. At some point, I switched the F&R and I got another spark/arc/fire in the switch

At this point, I decided to unwire and rewire the entire circuit (not new wires, just trace and make sure everything is connected correctly). I took all of the batteries out (which, btw, each test around 8.4v-8.7v individually), disconnected all of the accessory wiring (lights, radio, etc) and removed the field-shortening coil setup the PO installed. I found a wiring diagram and traced all of the main circuit (F/R, batteries, solenoids, motor) and everything seems in the right place. I couldn't find a detail of the charging port/fuse setup, so if anyone has that or can photo theirs with description of the connections, that would be great.

I also wanted to get a feel for the accelerator/micro switch/solenoid setup. When I depress the pedal slowly, I can hear (and see now that the batteries are out), the 5 micro switches each click on. When I had power to the cart, I could also hear the solenoids each click in turn. Does that mean the switches and solenoids are ok or can they be partially functional but bad? Should I remove each solenoid and test them individually? Can they be tested in place?

Again, I really appreciate the help!
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:32 AM   #10
Sergio
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Default Re: 86 Club Car troubleshooting - where to start and what to test

First, the wiring diagram in the stickies shows all the connections clearly:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post885427
Unless you are leaving some information out of the posts, your cart is either miswired or you have a bad micro-switch in the FNR.

The micro-switch in the FNR controls the negative connection to the key switch, so there is no way you could "click" the solenoids with the cart in neutral.

You should also not get any sparks changing directions with the FNR since the micro-switch will remove power from all solenoids which prevents any current from flowing.

When you have the pedal all the way down, all solenoids should be closing and no current will be flowing through any of the resistor coils.

Just drive the cart with the pedal all the way down for a minute or 2, lift your foot OFF the pedal and stop.

Check if any coils are hot, if so, at least the solenoid on the passenger side is bad.
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